|
I used 1" square tubing, believe it was .085 ish. The skin is 16 gauge. The upper rack is 3/4"tubing and sets on a 1/4"x1" flatbar rim. I can stand anywhere I want to on the lid, but try to get over a cross support. Sitting or laying is no problem.
The lid with rack is fairly heavy. You can lift it without the gas struts, but it is a handful. Got the struts from Mcmaster Carr, around $25 each. I would suggest making your own mounts for the struts with multiple holes for placing.
And thicker than the tinfoil ones they provide. A piece of 1/8" angle would be fine. I could not place the struts where I wanted to because of my tailgate opening. I used the 150# struts, and they are a bear to get into place; at least by myself. Multiple mounting holes would give you some fudging room and adjustment for lift pressure.
My struts make opening the lid a one hand deal, but will not hold it open on their own. They are strong enough, just can't get the angle needed.
One thing I found that works well so far is the stick on hockey puck led lights from Harbor Freight. Got a 3 pack for about $15. Really helps when trying to find something in the dark, they also can be tilted a bit for direction.
Many folks use a full length piano hinge on the lids. I used one on a prior trailer and it twisted and tweaked until it got hard to open. Thus the butt hinges. I do believe that a cam lock type latch would work better than the hasps I have, easier to compress the lid onto the weatherstripping. I used camper shell type weatherstripping, the stick on kind. I have a hard time keeping it in place. Might have to use some 3M weatherstripping (yellow death) glue on it. The one that will be the death of you to get it off.
|