One thing I'll probably never understand is why you get so irritated over some things, and why things that seem trivial to me seem so personal to you. I'm sure you know I'm not that important to get irritated. I've said this numerous times, but here goes again. 'If you don't like what I say, ignore it/me if you want. If you can help with a question of mine, I'd appreciate it and I'd value it.' I try to offer assistance where I can.
To reply, I take a side on a lot of things. If someone asks about the Super35, or anything else, I won't tell them it's polishing a turd just because it won't work for me (that's not a personal attack toward you, ok? it's an example of the "type" of thing I don't do). I don't have all the answers, but if I have information I'll share it. I don't argue for the sake of irritation, but sometimes I will take a side that isn't as commonly held for the sake of a good "debate", and I hope others won't take that as personal (especially if it's on JU). I'd love to be a philosophical rhetorical moderator, I just don't have time...and there isn't a philosophical rhetorical forum, yet
Also, because I don't agree with you, it doesn't mean I don't respect your opinion. {philosophical moment] It seems all too often in life that a disagreement becomes an opinion of a person rather than discourse or thought. I don't agree with that. [/philosophical moment] I don't have to agree with someone to like them (as a matter of fact MOST of my friends are people that I can have very good, and heated, arguments with).
I value opinion, but it doesn't mean I hold one as gospel on every subject. But I ask your opinion, because I value it. If you know something about a D44 RC that would seem to answer a question I might have, or offer insight into what I'm doing I want to know.
I spoke of the step-by-step buildup so you would have an idea of what I was planning on doing. You've said in the past it helps in deciding if you have time to help me. I don't think I argued the Currie BU wouldn't work without HP axles. I do remember saying Currie told
me they wouldn't work without HPs front and rear (which they said on more than one occasion, even after telling them I knew someone that did it). You said it would work. I needed to know about the variables, because the manufacturer and you had different answers to my question. Also, I didn't see a Currie skid plate, so I didn't know how flat it was.
Regardless of whether you think I'm a philosopher or a rhetor, I'm just trying to plan a few of my tomorrows in regard to the Jeep. I used to like you a lot, I still value your opinion on Jeep related things, and I hope to gain insight from some of the things you've done. I think you and I could actually learn a lot from each other, about a lot of various subjects. If we do, great. If not, so be it. I won't take it personal, and I won't mean it as personal if it's arguing a side other than one to which you agree.
Now, enough "drivel", and the "specs":
I plan on running a 35" - 37" tire (probably 36" Interco), with stock engine, transmission, and t-case (although I may do a 241 or Atlas at some point). I'll likely run 4.56 or lower. My plan is to keep the COG as low as possible, probably no more than 4" - 5" of suspension lift and ~1" body lift. A tall lift with enormous flex is not my major concern, so raising the skid plate, and the drive shafts become more important for clearance than spring height. I've already stated, my front axle will likely be a RC D30 or RC D44, the rear will be at least a D44. If you changed either axle to low-pinion, would your flat skid still work? I'm am hoping to do something similar in design (except maybe for the t-case crossmember, which I think is a neat idea but I don't know if I could pull off). Do I "need" HP axles front and rear to run a truly flat t-case skid?