Tie-downs for a TJ on a trailer

[TObject]

Please recommend a tie-down method and supplies for a TJ with 35" tires on a trailer with D rings on four corners [sides].

[Darrell C]

Rachet tie downs over the axle.

[DanB98TJ]

I'm using 3/8" chain with "T" hooks and the lever-style chain binders. I cross the chains side to side in front, but the gas tank prevents this in the rear. This holds the Jeep very well - it hasn't shifted at all, even on rough, winding roads. EDIT: Might help if I said the T-hooks fit into holes in the frame, huh?

The T hooks may not work in front for you because the Antirock blocks the oval holes they fit into, but there are different style hooks available. Any good trailer supply shop should be able to show you what will do it for you.

Besides the chains and chain binders, I'm using small D-ring shackles to attach the T-hooks to the chains.

[TObject]

Say, going with the axle idea. If I get four of these, in the 10,000 LBS flavor:

http://store.yahoo.net/wescoperforma...xcomstra2.html

Should that be enough?

The D rings are on the sides of the trailer, so there will be quite a bit of lateral force exerted on the straps over the axle. In the front, I can hook them up through the knuckle opening on the axle, next to the lower ball joints.

On the rear, I am not sure how to secure the straps and not let them shift, ripping off the brake lines, ARB fittings, and all the other stuff. Any ideas?

Also, in case the tires get in the way of the straps. Can I run a chain from one D ring to another, and then attach the straps to the chain? If yes, what would be a good way to adjust the length of the chain on the spot?

Thanks.

[Darrell C]

Originally posted by TObject
Say, going with the axle idea. If I get four of these, in the 10,000 LBS flavor:

http://store.yahoo.net/wescoperforma...xcomstra2.html

Should that be enough?

The D rings are on the sides of the trailer, so there will be quite a bit of lateral force exerted on the straps over the axle. In the front, I can hook them up through the knuckle opening on the axle, next to the lower ball joints.

On the rear, I am not sure how to secure the straps and not let them shift, ripping off the brake lines, ARB fittings, and all the other stuff. Any ideas?

Also, in case the tires get in the way of the straps. Can I run a chain from one D ring to another, and then attach the straps to the chain? If yes, what a good way to adjust the length of the chain on the spot?

Thanks.

The 10,000 lb variety should be sufficient.

My personal preference is to tie the vehicle down by anchoring the axles. I don't like pulling on the frame.

I don't wrap at each corner. Instead, I use one strap front and one strap rear, with a ratchet mechanism on each end of the strap; total of 4 ratchets. Hum, not sure if that made sense.

Example: rear axle. I place the strap, with a center protector sleeve, over the rear drive shaft and slide it back until it's past the u-joint and sitting on the diff housing. The strap ends get pulled rearward under the axle and out to each rear corner of the trailer. I place a ratchet on each end of the strap and alternate tightening keeping the sleeve centered over the diff housing. This pulls the rear axle down and backward.

Repeat for front, but pull down and forward. You could also anchor each front corner independently...2 straps up front. My dad does this with his T.

I wouldn't run a chain across the trailer and anchor to it with straps. It's been years since I've taken a rescue systems class, but IIRC stretching something across a span, then placing a load perpendicular on the middle exerts a force of 10x the weight of the load on the anchors points. 2000lb of load becomes something like 20,000 lbs on each anchor end of the span.

If your strap gets bent around a tire, it shouldn't hurt the strap as long as the bend is not severe.

[TObject]

Thanks, that looks like some good info.

Another question: chocking wheels, necessary or not?

[Darrell C]

Originally posted by TObject
Thanks, that looks like some good info.

Another question: chocking wheels, necessary or not?

I'm sure there's varied opinions on this, but I don't use tire chocks. I drive the rig up in 4 low (no ramps), turn it off, set the parking brake, and strap it down.

[Chris L]

Here is how mine is set up sergey.
rear

front

[Bruce David]

Sergey,
Look at the way the professional car transporters tie down the cars.
They compress the suspension.

Tying just the axels down can let the jeep move around, wearing your
shocks and joints. and can also lead to the 'tail wagging the dog'.
I learned that the hard way.

http://www.racerwholesale.com/forms/towinginfo.pdf

I put a chain around the rear axel, the use the winch to pull it forward
and tighten the chain. Then I run a 3" strap around the bumpers to
compress the suspension.

Bruce

[Paradiddle]

Sergey,

I have no idea if my method is the best but this is what I do.

1 - Go to a Beard seat vendor and get 4 2" straps and 4 2" abrasion guard staps.

2 - Run the abrasion guard strap through the C portion of the front axle and strap it down.

3 - Run the abrasion guard strap over the rear axle and cross the straps.

4 - Tighten it up.

Again - I make no bones about this being the best setup - I'm sure it's hard on my control arms, but it seems to work for me and it's the best I can do right now.

Jeff

[Tim]

resurecting an old thread.

looks like there are many ways to do this.

did i read somewhere that someone was having problems from strapping over the differential?

right now i am looking for a way to strap to my rear axle down without buggering it. my trailers rear tiedown d-rings are at the sides. fronts are located infront of the tires as are most i have seen.


anyways, which method is working best for you guys since last years thread? dad and i havent purchased any ratchets, straps, chains, binders or frame adapters yet.

[heep]

Here at work I have watch truckers tie ddown our equipment. Every one of them are criss-crossed. I have also seen that car haulers do pull the car or truck down with the suspension. Taking this into consideration, I have always crossed the chains and tied them to the d-rings on the bumper. If you rely on the bumper to hold your winch or d-rings to pul you up a cliff on the trail, thenit ought to hold your vehicle during the hauling aspect. Look at heavy equipment on trucks the next time you are driving down the road. If the chains they use will hold this machine on the trailer, then yours will too.
Just my .02.

[Hackle]

It may be over kill but what I do has worked very well for two years. I run one front and one rear axle strap and have welded a d-ring on the front of the trailer to anchor, and tie to the angle iron that the rear of the trailer is built off. I then run two straps to a D-ring reciever in the rear to the sides each ties to side of the trailer. In the front I use one strap over the front hoop from side to side on the trailer. Neither of the body straps are pulled extremely tight just enough to control the body and suspension.