Paging the weld nazi....

[Larry Nickell]

I haven?t welded since oxy/acetylene was state of the art, so I bought a new toy in the form of a Millermatic 175 today?



How?s my first weld in 30 years look? No gas yet, just flux core till I get more practice time.



Too quick at first?

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by Larry Nickell
I haven?t welded since oxy/acetylene was state of the art, so I bought a new toy in the form of a Millermatic 175 today?



How?s my first weld in 30 years look? No gas yet, just flux core till I get more practice time.



Too quick at first?

why did you screw up a perfectly good shift linkage?

[Larry Nickell]

Originally posted by mrblaine
why did you screw up a perfectly good shift linkage?

That's from a '66 Chevele SS-396 that went to heaven many moons ago.

[Allen]

Looks cold.....

Add more volatge oe less wire speed.....

And steady your travel speed.

Allen

PS-Don't weld with any sort of "pattern". Keep the wire/arc in the root of the joint.

[Larry Nickell]

Hmmm...less wire speed seems to be the sensible direction I should go until I get a few more miles of practice in, thanks a bunch.

Oh, and MrBlaine...good eye

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by Larry Nickell
Hmmm...less wire speed seems to be the sensible direction I should go until I get a few more miles of practice in, thanks a bunch.

Oh, and MrBlaine...good eye

It's hard not to remember nightmares. When I was 18, I was roommates with Mike Tellez and his passion was hot rods of which a 68 Chevelle was his current ride.

Unfortunately, he liked them much better than he was able to remember how all the linkage rods hooked back up to the 4 speed. As a consequence, he quite often managed to get it stuck in between or in two gears at once. It was my job to crawl under and find out which rod had gotten tangled and wiggle it free while he futzed with the shifter.

[Larry Nickell]

Originally posted by mrblaine
It's hard not to remember nightmares.

We have come to call them "the good old days", but you know, I'll take a top loader over a close ratio Muncie with a Hurst shifter any day. Unless, of course, it's mated to a '67 big block Vette

[Chris L]

Originally posted by Larry Nickell
We have come to call them "the good old days", but you know, I'll take a top loader over a close ratio Muncie with a Hurst shifter any day. Unless, of course, it's mated to a '67 big block Vette

Ah the good ole days. I blew up four ford side loaders {T-18? can't remember} then a top loader, and finally switched it all out to a small block C-6 auto with a 3250 10" Cobra Jet factory stall converter [Still have it]
As for the welds I would try the pulse/Zap method...Zap...wait a a second...zap wait a second etc. until you get your own method down.

[Jeff Weston]

You blew up a toploader? The sideloaders were weak but the toploaders were the schiznit, though heavier than hell. I darn near crushed myself the first time I yanked it out of my Mustang. After that, the aluminum T-5 I swapped in was was a lightweight. What vehicle was this in Chris?

Sorry for the thread hijack, but you wouldn't want any welding advice from me.

[Chris L]

Originally posted by Jeff Weston
You blew up a toploader? The sideloaders were weak but the toploaders were the schiznit, though heavier than hell. I darn near crushed myself the first time I yanked it out of my Mustang. After that, the aluminum T-5 I swapped in was was a lightweight. What vehicle was this in Chris?

Sorry for the thread hijack, but you wouldn't want any welding advice from me.

Jeff--
I about did the same thing pulling the top loader out by myself one time. It slipped off the jack and I had my hands on the front and rear when suddenly my shoulder holding the rear dislocated from the weight of trying to hold it. I rolled just in time for the T-loader to come down and scrape the side of my head

The vehicle was {this is the sad part }. It was a 1965 Ford Falcon Sedan Delivery. Two door Station wagon with no windows, just solid panels down the side. Kind of a cross between a 65 ranchero and wagon. They were very rare. The one I had was EXTREMELY rare. It was one of only 98 made that year, that came with a factory 289 and 4 speed. Now for the sad part. I tore it apart and put a very built 351 windsor moter with roller cam and ported heads blah, blah, blah. After breaking 5 4 gears I swapped in the built Art Carr small block C-6 and cut the floor up to use one of those ram rod shifters. Anyway I started breaking rear ends then. Eventually I swapped in a 289 and an auto and sold it for cheap. Damn, I wish I still had that car today in stock condition. What can I say, I was 17 at the time

{Again sorry for the thread hijack }

[cbassett]

Originally posted by Chris L
As for the welds I would try the pulse/Zap method...Zap...wait a a second...zap wait a second etc. until you get your own method down.

Hmm, I've read here n there that this method leaves impurities in the weld (flux core) and is a weaker weld due to 'cold welding' the pieces together. It does provide a pertier weld though.

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by cbassett
Hmm, I've read here n there that this method leaves impurities in the weld (flux core) and is a weaker weld due to 'cold welding' the pieces together. It does provide a pertier weld though.

It really depends on how fast you are on the trigger. If you are fast enough, the puddle just has time to freeze and is still hot enough to let the next one melt into it.

Of course, by the time you get that good, you may as well just pull the trigger and squirt it. That is unless you need to make something look good that you otherwise would bugger all up.

[JeepGal]

Them are purty welds Blaine

[Chris L]

Originally posted by mrblaine
It really depends on how fast you are on the trigger. If you are fast enough, the puddle just has time to freeze and is still hot enough to let the next one melt into it.

Of course, by the time you get that good, you may as well just pull the trigger and squirt it. That is unless you need to make something look good that you otherwise would bugger all up.

Thats what I meant

[Darrell C]

Originally posted by cbassett
Hmm, I've read here n there that this method leaves impurities in the weld (flux core) and is a weaker weld due to 'cold welding' the pieces together. It does provide a pertier weld though.

I was under the impression that flux core will burn slightly hotter giving better penetration, but not look as pretty.

Switching to CO2 Mig will clean things up some, looks wise.

Switching to Argon/CO2 will provide an even cleaner looking weld, but with slightly less penetration.

Then again, I haven't had any coffee yet this am, and could be all screwed up...

[cbassett]

I was speaking to the weld method, not the shielding type. My reference to the flux core shield was in conjuction with the method.

[Darrell C]

Gotcha...

I've dabbled a little with the "pulse/zap" method, but haven't become real proficient yet.

[Allen]

Originally posted by Darrell C
I was under the impression that flux core will burn slightly hotter giving better penetration, but not look as pretty.

Switching to CO2 Mig will clean things up some, looks wise.

Switching to Argon/CO2 will provide an even cleaner looking weld, but with slightly less penetration.

Then again, I haven't had any coffee yet this am, and could be all screwed up...

You are correct with everything except the MIG/100% CO2 process.....The weld itself; throat, legs, etc., may look better than a flux core weld. A lot will have to do with operator experience and machine settings.

However, a straight CO2/mild steel filler wire will spatter.....a lot. Again, settings, experience, and also nozzle angle can reduce this, but only to some degree.

IMO go flux or 75/25.

75/25 is well worth the small decrease in penetration for the better appearance and less lengthy clean up.

Allen

[Allen]

Originally posted by cbassett
I was speaking to the weld method, not the shielding type. My reference to the flux core shield was in conjuction with the method.

Yes, using a spot weld technique with flux core would be very difficult for a less experienced welder to do. One would have to start the next "spot" before the previous one solidified.

Done correctly the spot method has it's place.

Thing is most people don't understand how or when to use this technique.

Machine setting is critical.

Ever hear of pulse arc? Same thing.....it's just a lot faster than an operator can pull and release the trigger repeatedly.

Allen

[Allen]

Originally posted by Darrell C
Gotcha...

I've dabbled a little with the "pulse/zap" method, but haven't become real proficient yet.

Run the settings hot.....

Allen

[Darrell C]

Originally posted by Allen
Run the settings hot.....

Allen

Thanks for the feedback, Allen.

Always looking for tips to improve my welding.

[Larry Nickell]

I lost my first picture somehow

But reading the tips you all have posted is helping

Better?

[Darrell C]

Looks much better, Larry. The flash washed out some the detail.

But I'll refrain from a technical critique as I'm not as knowledgeable as some on this board.

[Allen]

Looks a lot better Larry.

Smooth throat, nice wetting around the edges.....

Take some more pictures of the ones you're pround of.....

No flash though. Just good natural/overhead lighting.



Allen

[Larry Nickell]

I graduated to gas today...I think I'm a welder now, or at least getting closer

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by Larry Nickell
I graduated to gas today...I think I'm a welder now, or at least getting closer

Steady your hand and move at a steady pace. You look like you are moving, stopping to fill the puddle and repeating.

Do the 45/45 thing at the same time and listen to the crackle. See if you can get it to stay at the steady buzz. You can tell when you are in the puddle too long because it starts to sputter. Speed up until that just goes away and move steady from there on out.

[Larry Nickell]

Originally posted by mrblaine
You look like you are moving, stopping to fill the puddle and repeating.

In a way yes...although I keep the gun moving, every 1/2" I'll roll my wrist a bit to go back into the puddle to attain the sea-shell effect. Not necessary to do this, just continual motion pushing the puddle?

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by Larry Nickell
Not necessary to do this, just continual motion pushing the puddle?

Yes