HELP!! D30 carrier/shims,locker install

[Bushwhacker]

I was taking out my D30 carrier this morning to install a lockright. I noticed on the driver side where the bearing is, two shims sticking out between the housing and the bearing. Because they were forced out, they are worn down on one side. Anyone know why these shims would be there, since the shims should be under the bearing?? I had a friend do the gears back in 98 and hadnt needed to mess with the front since then. When I tore the D35 apart recently to install the D44, I notice the same thing. If I install the carrier/locker back in there without those spacers, the carrier wont be tight enough, correct? What to do??
I dont remember why those are there. Maybe there werent enough shims and he added those on??
I've got it torn apart and dont know what to do now.

Jim Klouzek
97 TJ Sport

http://albums.photopoint.com/j/AlbumList?u=966523

[Hellbender]

Sounds like your friend didn't install the gears properly, the shims on a D30 are only used BETWEEN the carrier and bearing (ie bearings must be pulled to install shims).

2000 TJ 4.0L, A/T, all factory options.
Jeep Rater Score 360
http://www.hellbender.rockcrawler.com/
NRA Lifetime Member

[Bushwhacker]

Man, dont tell me that. They have been working fine for 3 years tho. I talked to another guy in the club and he said that a shop had put some shims on the outside of his carrier also. I have a buddy coming over tonight to help me mick the shims to put the right amount back in. I'd rather not have to take the bearing off and re shim it. If its worked for 3 years, shouldnt I be ok for now if I put it back that way?? I may be swapping out the axle for an XJ 30 or rebuilding mine with the hubs and axles.

Jim Klouzek
97 TJ Sport

[Hellbender]

Sounds like the other guy got screwed by the shop. Tell him to demand his $$$ back and take it to another shop. If they did this, then the rest will be wrong, too. (unless they just lucked out and hit it)

The part of the diff housing that the bearing race hits and the caps are not designed to hold shims like other designs, they'll work thier way out.

Even if you change to a hub conversion and WARN axleshafts, it won't affect this, you'll have to get the gears set-up properly. If you're going to get another HP30 axle (soon), then you could probably take a chance, it may or may not really screw things up.

Sorry.

2000 TJ 4.0L, A/T, all factory options.
Jeep Rater Score 360
http://www.hellbender.rockcrawler.com/
NRA Lifetime Member

[Art Welch]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Hellbender:
The part of the diff housing that the bearing race hits and the caps are not designed to hold shims like other designs, they'll work thier way out.

[/quote]

I can vouch for that. When 4wheelparts did the setup of my D30 a few years ago they put the shims on the outside. Last summer a friend and I took it apart to fix a problem. The shims were still sitting there happily on the outside intact so we didn't think a thing of it and put it back together that way. Bad move. When Scott got the 30 and took it apart it was filled with shim soup and that was after very limited use. No clue why the 4WP shims stayed and ours didn't, but it was ugly...

[TJRON]

I can never figure out how they get enough bearing pre-load with thin shims on the outside....
Dickweeds.
On the D 35 you should have large spacer/shims on the outside. One spacer/shim per side. I've got some that might work I could send you. I only used two out of the shim pack.

I like the way my Jeep is now..... I'd just like it, well, a little higher off the ground with more ground clearance!

[Hellbender]

The internal shim design IS a PITA to set-up (pulling and pressing bearings every time), but I use a little trick to make things a bunch easier.

I take the OLD bearings and relieve the inside w/ a die grinder until they will just slide on w/o pressing them. Then use these to set up the gear shims. When everything is right, press on the new bearings and recheck everything one last time.

A D30 usually takes me 8-10 times to get right, but I'm pretty picky.

1/3 of the shops that say they can do it, can't do it properly.

2000 TJ 4.0L, A/T, all factory options.
Jeep Rater Score 360
http://www.hellbender.rockcrawler.com/
NRA Lifetime Member

[TJRON]

Good idea Hellbender. I also sanded down the pinion race for my D 44 for quick removal. I couldn't imagine pounding that thing out every time. I'm going to hang on to those set up goodies.
Question? Why couldn't a guy add a few shims to the existing crush sleeve rather than use a new one? Getting that thing to "break" is a b*tch.

I like the way my Jeep is now..... I'd just like it, well, a little higher off the ground with more ground clearance!
.

[Hellbender]

<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by TJRON:

Question? Why couldn't a guy add a few shims to the existing crush sleeve rather than use a new one? Getting that thing to "break" is a b*tch.

.[/quote]

There isn't enough bearing surface (the thin edge of the crush sleeve)to reliably shim something that has a lot of load, like this application. Might work 9 times out of 10, though
know what I mean?

To crush the sleeve, I usually borrow a special 600 lb. gear driven torque wrench my friend has, but when not available, I just use a long breaker bar. Run it horizontal to the ground and use my bodyweight hanging off of it (laying on my back and do a pullup). Usually the hardest part is securing the pinion yoke solidly.

2000 TJ 4.0L, A/T, all factory options.
Jeep Rater Score 360
http://www.hellbender.rockcrawler.com/
NRA Lifetime Member

[TJRON]

I had so much slop in my breaker/cheater/socket I couldn't get leverage on it so I borrowed a huge $900 ratchet used on diesels. Worked great! I'll never do one under the Jeep again. Call me wuss but it's easier for this old fart to pull the whole rear end and do it in the garage.

I like the way my Jeep is now..... I'd just like it, well, a little higher off the ground with more ground clearance!