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Technical Forum The main forum for jeep related discussions. Mechanically Inept... |
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#1
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The Real Man Oil Changing Instructions
1. Get the right amount of correct viscosity fresh oil (full synthetic
like Mobil 1 or Red Line preferred) and a good oil filter (none of that Fram crap please, Napa Gold is cheap and all right). 2. Drive your vehicle until hot (hot oil will drain better). 3. Real man own vehicles that are high enough above the ground, they don’t need no jack stands to change the oil. 4. Put a trap so that to keep you driveway clean 5. Get one of those oil-changing pans that you can close after draining the oil. Position it under the drain plug. Account for the oil shooting out of the oil pan following a hyperbola at the beginning, then shifting to directly under the drain hole, and continue moving in the opposite direction as the stream weakens. Reposition the pan accordingly. When you are removing the drain plug, stop turning when it is about to come of, and then make the final twist while pressing the plug in, and quickly remove the plug so that not to burn your hands with hot oil. 6. Open the filler hole on top of the engine and remove the dipstick halfway so that the oil drains faster. 7. Go check out new posts on jeepbbs. 8. Put the drain plug back in and reposition the drain pan under the oil filter. 9. Loosen the old oil filter. Put a ziplock bag over the oil filter and unscrew it completely off the engine. Pour the oil from the old oil filter into the drain pan. Close the ziplock bag so that the old filter doesn’t make a mess. 10. Take the new oil filter out of the box, open a fresh bottle of oil, stick your finger in the bottle, and cover the gasket on the oil filter with oil. Wipe your finger. Fill the new filter halfway with fresh oil and screw it on. Make sure that the filter goes straight and you don’t cross thread it. Hand tighten the filter, it doesn’t need to be very tight. 11. Pour the fresh oil into the engine. 12. Close the filler hole. The filler hole cap does not need to be too tight ether. 13. Put the dipstick all the way back in. 14. Close the oil drain pan, lightly spray it with brake cleaner and wipe it so that it doesn’t make a mess wherever you transport it. Get your used oil to any auto parts store at your convenience; they will recycle it for free. Oil changing is easy. Anyone can do it. It only takes about 30 minutes if you are not in a rush. When you change your own oil, you are sure that the job is done right plus you can use better quality oil and filter.
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Sergey Nosov Navigation and Technologies Officer NoNo Expeditions Australia www.expeditionsaustralia.com |
#2
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Didn't we just change yours like twice in 2-3 months?
98 TJ Sport D44ARB/D30Detroit/Teralow/35" MTr's |
#3
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Sergey,
I kept waiting for my favorite part where I forget to reinstall the drain plug.... Bruce '84 CJ-7 'ONDROKS' Det/9"s F/R, NV 4500, MPI OBA, Bla,Bla,Bla........
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Bruce Its just a sign of the times,,,,,,,,,,,, Going forward,,,in reverse,,,,,, ___________________________ ------------------------------------------- fourtreks.com |
#4
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I like step #7.
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#5
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Hmmm, sounds like me.
The only thing I would add is I use a large 3'x4' cookie sheet type pan to catch all the oil that the wind blows in every direction.
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Patrick |
#6
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To go along with Sergey's Real Man Oil Change Instructions
I have a [b]Real Man's "Designer" Oil Recycling Container/b] To Make: 1. Start with a 5 gallon polyurethane gas can. 2. Raid your desk draw for a "Black Sharpie Indelible Marking Pen." 3. Color in the Letters O, I, L on each side in the raised letters to be found in the word GASOLINE. To Use: 4. Unscrew Main Cap and Remove. 5. Unscrew Vent (Don't loose, it's small.) 6. Insert Funnel in Main Cap Hole. 7. Slowly Pour Oil from Drain Pan into Funnel 8. Put Main Cap Back on 9. Close Vent Off with Small Cap (if you haven't lost it). Notes: a. Can be combined/used for gear oil and transmission fluid as well. b. Holds 5 gallons which means less trips to the recycle center. Frank |
#7
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frank,
i kindof did the same thing. i found two trail hardened gerry cans (probably WWII) and built a platform with 4 casters so i can roll it out from under one of my work benches when full (10 gallons). nice big hole and easy to hit when empting drain pan and the gaskets still seal up good when caps are screwed on. i used to use a 5 gallon bucket but these work much better and they are easier to strap down in my jeep or trailer. i dont know why the pics are always so big |
#8
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I do it the easy way - a Fumoto valve and a piece of 3/8" fuel hose into a gallon milk jug. Just have to remember to keep an eye on the jug - six quarts of oil don't fit in a four quart container.....
I'm probably going to make a bolt-on plate to cover the hole in the skid - it would be just my luck for a well aimed rock to pop up and damage the valve.
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NOW: 1996 XJ, 4.0/AW4/NP242. 1.5" spacer/shackle lift, 30x9.50's, open both ends GONE: 1998 TJ, 4.0/5-speed. Currie lift. D44/HP D30, 4.88s, Detroits, Tera 4:1, 2-low. 35" MTRs "The man who loves other countries as much as his own stands on a level with the man who loves other women as much as he loves his own wife." "We can have no "50-50" allegiance in this country. Either a man is an American and nothing else, or he is not an American at all." Theodore Roosevelt |
#9
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I just picked up a Fram SureDrain for my Dana 300. I made an adapter from a pipe fitting plug to fit it to the D300. I like the gas can idea. Holds more.
Chris |
#10
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Quote:
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My Jeep |
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