TJ shafts in a YJ?

[-=Alien=-]

I've heard of people installing TJ shafts into their YJs to get rid of the vacuum connect in the axle. Has anyone done this? I'm new to YJs... my lil' bro just bought one yesterday... and the vacuum connect isn't working. Is anything alse involved besides sliding in the new passenger shaft?

Thanks!

[Jerry Bransford]

It's pretty much a simple drop-in replacement.

[Robert J. Yates]

You will need the shafts for both sides as there are different u-joints between YJ's and TJ's and I would assume you would want equal strength. As for other things, search here for Warn as there is a disconnect block off plate and seal that would also be helpful to you which you can find the part number for.

[Macgyver]

The axle will fit, but you have to add a new seal to keep it from leaking. I can't remember if the seal goes in the diff or where the old sliding fork was.

[meatblanket]

I've done this. I didn't like the results.

The problem for me is that my front driveshaft angles aren't all that good. So when you install the TJ shafts, your YJ front DS is now constantly spinning. That created vibes for me over about 50 mph. I then chose to do a manual hub conversion to get rid of that problem.

The YJ passenger side shaft has a larger ID oil seal where the disconnect was. That seal won't work with the TJ shaft. You have choices on how to deal with this. First, you could put a seal on the inside of the diff, but that means you would have to remove the carrier. Another way is to find the correct seal to put where the oem YJ seal was, at the disconnect. I guess you could put both seals in, but it's not necessary.

Since I put the seal in at the disconnect, I could probably round up the part number for you if you need it. You will also have to mock up a tool to install it, but even doing this it is probably still faster than removing the carrier.

If I had to do it all over again, I would consider getting the 1995 YJ shafts which allow you to keep your disconnect and still have the larger u-joint that TJs have. That's not as good as what I have now, but it is also a lot less $$.

[John]

Wow, all that to fix the vibes? I'd have just balanced the drive shaft.

[Stu Olson]

It may have been the drive shaft or it may have been an improper pinion angle. Either one can cause vibes at highway speed. (I had the pinion problem the 2nd time I lifted my TJ and was foolish enough to pay an alignment shop to align my TJ.... I won't give them money again!)

While one can easily adjust front pinion angle on a TJ via the control arms, I am not familiar with how that is done with a leaf sprung vehicle. Is that those wedge things that go in the springs?

[Robert J. Yates]

There is a very good reason why TJ's have a cv front driveshaft

[meatblanket]

Actually the TJ shafts just opened a huge can of worms for me.

First, I was running a MORE shackle reverse with buggy leafs. This requires a longer slip joint in the front DS. My long slip joint was a bit sloppy (I know that sounds bad!) which contributed to DS vibes.

Second, as Robert implies, the YJ does not have a CV driveshaft. My YJ shaft had been balanced previously, when the extended travel slip joint was installed.

You can alter your pinion angle with degree wedges on leaf sprung vehicles. However, I liked my caster angle the way it was and didn't want to alter that.

So, given some of the other advantages of the manual hub conversion, I went ahead and put that in. BTW, I am just now ditching the stock TJ shafts for some Warn alloy inners, but I think I'll hang onto them for spares.

That is how putting TJ shafts in a YJ cost me $$$!

Mike S.

[-=Alien=-]

Thanks for the info. I'll look into the seal and block off plate. As for the drive shaft spinning, he's already got a lock right in the front, so it spins anyway...

[meatblanket]

FYI, the block off plate isn't really necessary. You can just remove the fork and bolt it back up.

[-=Alien=-]

Cool. Thanks, meatblanket!

[-=Alien=-]

Does anyone have a part number for the seal? TIA

[meatblanket]

Which seal? The one that replaces the one in the vacuum disconnect?

Or the one that you can put in right next to the diff if you pull the carrier?

The latter is the same part # as for a TJ, but I assume you want the former, right?

If so, I've got one at home and I can check it for you later.

[-=Alien=-]

Yea, I want the one that goes in where the disconnect was. I really appreciate it.

[meatblanket]

Sorry I'm so slow!
The part number is Dana/Spicer 46470.

You'll need to make a tool to install it, use threaded rod and a few washers to pull the seal in. If you need help with that, let me know.

[-=Alien=-]

Thanks! We'll try to get to it this weekend!