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  #1  
Old 09-20-2001, 07:27 AM
Ace! Ace! is offline
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Need SYE kit help

I am going to crack the t-case open this weekend and started looking over the Advance Adapters instructions. They are for pulling the t-case, and I am going to leave it in the Jeep. The first few pages of instruction are about pulling drive shafts and getting the front output shaft out. If I'm leaving the t-case in the Jeep do I have to pull the front drive shaft and output shaft, or can I begin with the rear half? When I looked at the number of parts in the box it looked like a 30 minute job, but there's got to be close to 20 pages of instruction.

Any pointers?

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  #2  
Old 09-20-2001, 08:15 AM
Scott Hill Scott Hill is offline
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you do need to pull it all out so you can remove the chain. you will also need a 12 point socket but I can remember the size. Also there are 2 slots in the side of the case that you can put a screwdriver in to crack the case after all the bolts are removed.

This is an easy job to do and leaving the t-case in the jeep is a good idea.

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  #3  
Old 09-20-2001, 08:39 AM
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Thanks Scott, I had no idea I had to pull the front output shaft (not that it's a problem, I just for some reason thought since I was only replacing the rear...). Does it do any good to remove the t-case skid plate (supporting the t-case with a jack stand or something) or is that wasted effort?

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  #4  
Old 09-20-2001, 09:46 AM
Scott Hill Scott Hill is offline
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depends on how flexiable you are it think it is a lot easier to take out the skid.

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  #5  
Old 09-20-2001, 09:57 AM
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Merci beaucoup mon ami!

Hmmm, maybe since the skid will be off I should just throw a flat one on

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  #6  
Old 09-20-2001, 06:01 PM
Hellbender Hellbender is offline
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Left out of thier instructions (at least I missed it), is this important step.........

When you install the new yoke on the output shaft, clean the splines (internal and external) w/ brake cleaner and rub silicone sealer on the splines when you slide the yoke on.

If you don't do this, it will leak fluid through the splines.

Clean ALL sealing surfaces (before silicone) with brake cleaner several times. Silicone is great stuff IF the surfaces are prepped properly.

HTH

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  #7  
Old 09-20-2001, 06:34 PM
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Thanks.

By silicone, do you mean RTV (I can't remember if that's the way it's spelled, or RVT, gasket maker)? And you put that stuff on the splines?

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  #8  
Old 09-20-2001, 06:42 PM
Hellbender Hellbender is offline
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Yes, use the blue or black (not the super hi-temp). And do that (spline sealant)to both front and rear yokes.

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  #9  
Old 09-20-2001, 07:08 PM
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Thanks, will do (and no, it's not in the AA instructions).

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  #10  
Old 09-20-2001, 09:19 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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An easy way to remember the anagram is to know what it stands for- in this case it would be Room Temperature Vulcanizing. RTV

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  #11  
Old 09-21-2001, 07:02 AM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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One more thing one tailshaft conversions. It is of utmost importance to have a great pair of lock ring pliers. These differ from conventional snap ring pliers due to the nature of the rings involved.

Snap rings have holes in the two adjacent ends of the clips. Lock rings do not, they have beveled ends and require pliers with opposing flat surfaces to spread them apart.

KD makes a big pair that is barely adequate for the job. A bigger pair is adviseable. In this type of plier, bigger means that the opposed flats spread further apart when the handles are squeezed. Minimum spread is 1.25 inches, the distance required to remove the clip for the planetary.

Look at the top pair. This is the style you need.

http://www.mytoolstore.com/kd/kdspec20.html

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  #12  
Old 09-21-2001, 07:11 AM
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Thanks!

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  #13  
Old 09-21-2001, 11:43 AM
Hellbender Hellbender is offline
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I had to grind the stops down (so the jaws would open wider) on my Craftsman pair.

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