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  #1  
Old 08-21-2002, 10:57 AM
TObject TObject is offline
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Lightbulb Jay's Jeep Build-up

Heya folks,

I am posting these pictures for Jay. Comments on his CJ-5 build up are appreciated.









Looks good!
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  #2  
Old 08-21-2002, 11:05 AM
Robert J. Yates Robert J. Yates is offline
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A little more info on this build-up until Jay, who is an internet virgin and a tad shy shows up. Its a CJ-5 and previously ran a Warn XCL coil conversion suspension in front and a springover in the rear. The front XCL is unchanged. The Jeep also sports a chevy V8 with an automatic with a Dana 300 T-case. It has D44's front and rear.

The pix highlight the rear axle which has been moved to the rear of the Jeep approximately 10 inches, now giving the CJ-5 a wheelbase of 93 inches - about the same as a TJ. He is using the XCL rear coilover springs while fabricating arms and the arm layout himself in his garage.
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  #3  
Old 08-21-2002, 11:40 AM
Jeff Weston Jeff Weston is offline
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Is this the same red CJ5 that went on the RAMJAW Big Bear run a few years ago?

It looks like quite a cool project. I like the doglegged lower arms and the triangulated uppers with rod ends. It should keep the rear in check side to side moreso than the poly bushings do. Also, those rear bushings tend to wear out pretty quick with the XCL kit. The fact that they supply two sets of bushings with the kit tells you something.

My only suggestion would be to look into the possibility of modifying and raising the center belly pan before buttoning everything back up and putting the driveline back in. My dad's YJ w/Warn XCL is always getting hung up on that damn thing due to the fact that it hangs down about 4".
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  #4  
Old 08-21-2002, 11:46 AM
Jay Jay is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeff Weston
Is this the same red CJ5 that went on the RAMJAW Big Bear run a few years ago?

It looks like quite a cool project. I like the doglegged lower arms and the triangulated uppers with rod ends. It should keep the rear in check side to side moreso than the poly bushings do. Also, those rear bushings tend to wear out pretty quick with the XCL kit. The fact that they supply two sets of bushings with the kit tells you something.

My only suggestion would be to look into the possibility of modifying and raising the center belly pan before buttoning everything back up and putting the driveline back in. My dad's YJ w/Warn XCL is always getting hung up on that damn thing due to the fact that it hangs down about 4".
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  #5  
Old 08-21-2002, 11:52 AM
Jay Jay is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jay
Hey Jeff, Thanks for the info. I was at Big Bear a few years ago so it could be the same. I can't raise the cross member no more due to the short lenght of the drive shaft. The automtic trans. takes up a few inches. So unless I go to high pinion stuff. And I can't afford That as long as the 44 still works!

Jay
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  #6  
Old 08-21-2002, 11:53 AM
Paradiddle Paradiddle is offline
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This buildup is ridiculous.

I mean heck - there isn't even a place to SIT!!!



Kidding of course - looks like a lot of fun.

Jeff
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  #7  
Old 08-21-2002, 11:55 AM
Jay Jay is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Paradiddle
This buildup is ridiculous.

I mean heck - there isn't even a place to SIT!!!



Kidding of course - looks like a lot of fun.

Jeff
I guess I still have some more building to do??
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  #8  
Old 08-21-2002, 12:02 PM
Scott Hill Scott Hill is offline
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May I suggest a few drive shafts a roll cage and at least 1 seat.

to go belly up on it is a great benifit you may want to see if you can stuff the engine forward to get some more clearence under the t-case Chevy V8s are short and so are the D300you should end up with almost 4 inches to move it forward.


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  #9  
Old 08-21-2002, 01:01 PM
Robert J. Yates Robert J. Yates is offline
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On going with a flat belly pan - the Dana 300 is actually the problem. The Warn belly pan had been notched in its previous incarnation to accomodate the low output shaft typical of that t-case but as part of this build-up, its already been clocked to get the original flat bottom back to the Warn pan.

Jeff, this is, or I should say was the same Jeep that was up in Big Bear.
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  #10  
Old 08-21-2002, 04:23 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Hi Jay, I am a friend of Robert's and he asked me to comment on anything I saw and to do so honestly. Remember that if I say something you don't like and take it out on him.

Your work generally looks very nice. The only things I would do differently have to do with the spacing and angle of the rear CO's. The way you have them will give you tons of travel at the wheel but possibly at the sacrifice of stability. I don't your width, but it appears from the width of the frame that you are no wider than a TJ.

I have tinkered with shocks a fair bit and I have to say, just a little movement outboard makes a huge difference in the stability of the rig.

I also don's see any provision for or mention of swaybars front or rear. That will help with the stability even if you don' t move the CO's outboard any.

At some point you may also consider a larger rod end for the lower arms. Not for strength, but for durability. The larger surface area and general beef of the 1 x 1/14-12 rod end lend themselves to a high level of longevity. We have yet to wear one out on Garry's rig and I wore several of Skyjacker's version out on mine. Sergey's uppers are also ready to be replaced.
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  #11  
Old 08-21-2002, 07:48 PM
Jay Jay is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by mrblaine
Hi Jay, I am a friend of Robert's and he asked me to comment on anything I saw and to do so honestly. Remember that if I say something you don't like and take it out on him.

Your work generally looks very nice. The only things I would do differently have to do with the spacing and angle of the rear CO's. The way you have them will give you tons of travel at the wheel but possibly at the sacrifice of stability. I don't your width, but it appears from the width of the frame that you are no wider than a TJ.

I have tinkered with shocks a fair bit and I have to say, just a little movement outboard makes a huge difference in the stability of the rig.

I also don's see any provision for or mention of swaybars front or rear. That will help with the stability even if you don' t move the CO's outboard any.

At some point you may also consider a larger rod end for the lower arms. Not for strength, but for durability. The larger surface area and general beef of the 1 x 1/14-12 rod end lend themselves to a high level of longevity. We have yet to wear one out on Garry's rig and I wore several of Skyjacker's version out on mine. Sergey's uppers are also ready to be replaced.
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  #12  
Old 08-21-2002, 07:58 PM
Jay Jay is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jay
Thank you for your input MrBlaine. Robert speaks very highly of you and I gald to hear yours and roberts input. I checked on a rear torsion bar...Big bucks. Maybe just a sway bar will do? I've had several people tell me I might need some sort of sway bar. But others just say wait and see. Jason, At Tri-county said the further I space out the shocks, the more travel it would have. So I tried to pick an even medium. But its nothing a grinder can't fix. I guess that what garages are for! I still need to Roberts Jeep for some Ideas.
Thanks again for the input.
Jay
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