.030 vs. .035 solid wire technique differences for MIG welding?

[Jerry Bransford]

Ok, I'm still relatively new at welding here and I tried something new tonight, I switched from .030 to .035 wire (both solid) because I have a little heavier upcoming welding to do. I have some 3/16" control arm skid plates I'll be welding to the axle and control arm brackets. I know the .030 probably would have handled it but I was a bit worried about the mass of the axle tube I have to weld the new skidplates to.

So I switched my 110v Hobart MIG with Argon/CO2 gas from the .030 I've been learning on to the .035, which also of course means switching the copper stinger to an .035 version.

The first copper stinger turned out to be too tight so the wire feed was very erratic, giving me even worse than my usual marginal welds. I kept at it and eventually the wire welded itself to the end of the tip. So I switched tips to another .035 copper tip and voila, the eratic wire feed problem cleared right up. The welds of course immediately improved. All my practice tonight was on some medium sized pieces of 3/16" scrap steel.

So here's my question... is there much of a difference in technique between .030 and .035 solid wire? I slowed the wire speed down to 20 IPS and the voltage was full max ('5') which is what the guide on my Hobart welder says to start with. So I was getting nowhere fast, I tried a bit faster speed and then a bit slower wire feed speed. I was getting some nice looking welds finally, but I wasn't getting that nice "buzz/singing noise" I get with .030. More splatter too. I slowed way down and made sure the wire was feeding slowly enough but still, the .035 seems to be a bit harder for me to get a good steady buzz/singing sound like I aim for so I know the weld is going well.

What's so different about .030 and 035 so far as technique goes? I had something like 20-22 CFM for my gas flow.

I can say some of my welds looked downright nice tonight but I still have yet to achieve the good steady sound I was getting with .030. Suggestions would be great.

By the way, the Miller welding DVD I bought at the Offroad Expo last weekend was worth its weight in gold to me. After watching it and observing their recommended techniques, the appearance and quality of my welds improved dramatically!

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by Jerry Bransford
Ok, I'm still relatively new at welding here and I tried something new tonight, I switched from .030 to .035 wire (both solid) because I have a little heavier upcoming welding to do. I have some 3/16" control arm skid plates I'll be welding to the axle and control arm brackets. I know the .030 probably would have handled it but I was a bit worried about the mass of the axle tube I have to weld the new skidplates to.

So I switched my 110v Hobart MIG with Argon/CO2 gas from the .030 I've been learning on to .035 sold wire, which also of course means switching the copper stinger to one sized for .035.

The first copper stinger turned out to be too tight so the wire feed was very erratic, giving me even worse than my usual marginal welds. I kept at it and eventually the wire welded itself to the end of the tip. So I switched tips to another .035 copper tip and voila, the eratic wire feed problem cleared right up. The welds of course immediately improved.

So here's my question... is there much of a difference in technique between .030 and .035 solid wire? I slowed the wire speed down to 20 IPS and the voltage was full max ('5') which is what the guide on my Hobart welder says to start with. So I was getting nowhere fast, I tried a bit faster speed and then a bit slower wire feed speed. I was getting some nice looking welds finally, but I wasn't getting that nice "buzz/singing noise" I get with .030. More splatter too. I slowed way down and made sure the wire was feeding slowly enough but still, the .035 seems to be a bit harder for me to get a good steady buzz/singing sound like I aim for so I know the weld is going well.

What's so different about .030 and 035 so far as technique goes? I had something like 20-22 CFM for my gas flow.

I can say some of my welds looked downright nice tonight but I still have yet to achieve the good steady sound I was getting with .030. Suggestions would be great.

By the way, the Miller welding DVD I bought at the Offroad Expo last weekend was worth its weight in gold to me. After watching it and observing their recommended techniques, the appearance and quality of my welds improved dramatically!

Go back to the .030 so you can keep the heat up.

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally posted by mrblaine
Go back to the .030 so you can keep the heat up.

Really? Sheesh, it seemed like my welds and penetration improved dramatically on the 3/16" once I went to .035. It was harder to get to that point with .035 but ok. Maybe my slightly better technique after having viewed the Miller DVD made the biggest difference and not the .035. Ok, going back to .030. I just thought the .035 would be better on the heavier stuff based on the information in the Hobart guide. Thanks Blaine!

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by Jerry Bransford
Really? Sheesh, it seemed like my welds and penetration improved dramatically on the 3/16" once I went to .035. It was harder to get to that point with .035 but ok. Maybe my slightly better technique after having viewed the Miller DVD made the biggest difference and not the .035. Ok, going back to .030. I just thought the .035 would be better on the heavier stuff based on the information in the Hobart guide. Thanks Blaine!

It may be better at the start Jerry, but your duty cycle running at max heat will soon kick in and your consistency will suffer.

Give it a try. Run several long welds in a row and watch what happens. If nothing bad happens, stay with it. If you welds start to suffer, go back to the smaller wire.

Now, we get to a question that a good EE should be able to answer. If your wire size goes up, that should provide less resistance and increase your amperage available? If so, the .035 should be able to burn hotter with less effect on the welder.

Confused yet?

[Jerry Bransford]

Gotcha Blaine, and I see your point on the larger diameter wire. It would draw more amps through the welder, get it hot more quickly, and shorten the max weld times. Thanks again.

[chef]

My turn! What do I adjust to control splatter?

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally posted by chef
My turn! What do I adjust to control splatter?

The only thing I have learned about controlling splatter is don't forget to turn the shielding gas back on if you shut it off for dinner.

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by chef
My turn! What do I adjust to control splatter?

If you keep the electrode in the puddle too long, it will splatter. You need to move slightly faster.

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally posted by mrblaine
If you keep the electrode in the puddle too long, it will splatter. You need to move slightly faster.

That's exactly what I was doing more of lately, I'm glad to know that's what was causing the extra splatter. Good stuff, thanks again!

[papromike]

Jerry, the Hobart you have will work fine with .030


I only go to .035 when I just run FLUX CORED wire in it, to do really thick stuff, I then make multiple passes just to make sure to get enough penetration.

I am not here to brag in any way about my welding, because sometime it isnt pretty.. but In the last 3 years I have been welding parts on my jeep (including my axle truss on my 4 link) I dont have any cracks and nothing has come apart... so I guess something is working


I actually run .030 with the ARGO/C0) mix and it works really good and gives a nice clean weld penetrates nice with the proper settings.


I seem to have alot more luck with my Handler 135 when I have the Heat on (4) highest setting, but instead of running the wire speed up around 50 where they recommend, I run it at about 30-35..

I get more penetration that way.. higher hear and a little lower wire speed and I took blaines reccomendation STAY IN THE ROOT first, then you can make a pass over the top if you want to do a pattern

Prep the metal well, I always chamfer my piece at about a 45degree angle where the weld is going to be and make sure it is NICE and clean, the little Hobarts will weld fine, you just need to prep a bit more than you would with a big arse 220v welder

[Jerry Bransford]

More good help, thanks! What are you calling the root? Is that the backside of the puddle? And how do I know if I have exceeded the duty cycle of the welder? Does it just cut off like with a self-resetting thermal circuit breaker?

[Allen]

Originally posted by Jerry Bransford
More good help, thanks! What are you calling the root? Is that the backside of the puddle? And how do I know if I have exceeded the duty cycle of the welder? Does it just cut off like with a self-resetting thermal circuit breaker?

Stick with .030.

.035 is too large for a 110 unit.

Yes, the welder will shut down if you exceed the duty cycle, and won't start back up until the unit cools sufficiently.

The root of the joint is exactly that, where your two pieces meet and form the joint.

Allen

[Jerry Bransford]

Thanks Allen, I appreciate that info. Man there is sure a lot to learn when it comes to welding! Luckily it's just for my junk.