Post Processing

[Britain]

S,
What comes first the egg or the chicken? When post processing I shoot in the raw format perhaps a diff format for other cameras.

Post processing is a visual to mind on how the pic should look. You adjust.

The problem is you adjust to what you see on your monitor. If you monitor is pooched the visualization is pooched also. You post that picture and here come the complaints.

Also you want want of those expensive 30 X something blow ups..that is also a visualization from the company that is doing it.

Many things can go wrong. Where do you find the right balance to come up with what you want shown?

Vern

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by Britain
S,
What comes first the egg or the chicken? When post processing I shoot in the raw format perhaps a diff format for other cameras.

Post processing is a visual to mind on how the pic should look. You adjust.

The problem is you adjust to what you see on your monitor. If you monitor is pooched the visualization is pooched also. You post that picture and here come the complaints.

Also you want want of those expensive 30 X something blow ups..that is also a visualization from the company that is doing it.

Many things can go wrong. Where do you find the right balance to come up with what you want shown?

Vern

I'm still trying to figure out how to get the dust removal down in NX Capture for the NEF format.

[Britain]

Actually I'm going into diego this week. My chip is loaded with hitchhikers.

I post process with Raw shooter. I think Adobe aquired um. The nasty stuff I take out with Adobe Photo Shop. Theres a lot of free programs for post processing.

Adobe I use the clone tool. Grab an area close to the dust and stamp it out. Best bet is try and keep the chip clean.

I wont change lenses out at places that have dust lots of dust. Usually the rock krawling stuff is ok.

If this is the dust your talking about.

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by Britain
Actually I'm going into diego this week. My chip is loaded with hitchhikers.

I post process with Raw shooter. I think Adobe aquired um. The nasty stuff I take out with Adobe Photo Shop. Theres a lot of free programs for post processing.

Adobe I use the clone tool. Grab an area close to the dust and stamp it out. Best bet is try and keep the chip clean.

I wont change lenses out at places that have dust lots of dust. Usually the rock krawling stuff is ok.

If this is the dust your talking about.

It is the same dust on the sensor, but I have a bunch resting on top of the prism or whatever it is for the eyepiece. It doesn't show up on photos, it's just annoying to look through.

[TObject]

I also shoot in RAW format. Basically I want the best from the camera, and I want as much information from the camera as I can get. Extra information hidden in shadows and highlights may become especially useful in case I want to manipulate the image later.

The obvious downside to RAW is that the files tend to be big, and that it requires an extra converting step before images can be manipulated with traditional editing software.

The best thing you can do to get closer to ?What you see is what you get? is calibrating your monitor. It is important to have a good monitor, and it is very important to have it color-calibrated. There are various methods, from free internet wizards that can get you into ballpark to very expensive calibration devices; and everything in between.

Working in a room with neutral ambience and not too much stray light also helps. Many graphic designers prefer to work in the dark or often have big hoods shading their monitors.

If you print at home, you basically have two choices: you can get a calibration device for the printer and experiment with different inks and papers, or you can stick to the manufacturer's recommended ink and paper and use color profile supplied by the printer manufacturer. The second choice is usually much easier.

Good professional printing labs will have their junk well calibrated (otherwise they wouldn?t stay in business for long) and will offer you a choice of color spaces and palettes they support.

Now, what influences the color space you work in is a topic for a whole big separate discussion. If you don?t know, you should probably stick to sRGB. But other color spaces may yield better results when you know what you are doing.

[Britain]

Originally posted by mrblaine
It is the same dust on the sensor, but I have a bunch resting on top of the prism or whatever it is for the eyepiece. It doesn't show up on photos, it's just annoying to look through.

Dont use canned compressed air the liquids in it will creat havoc.

I use a hand bulb type air blower , this generally will clean the viewer. Sometimes work on the chip but the dust just goes elsewhere and comes back later. Theres a couple of different methods of cleaning the chip. Serg may have more on that.

For me I use an anti static swab. The ones I uses are very expensive.