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#31
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#32
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Other than installing a deep pan kit, cooler, and maybe a temperature gauge, I wasn't planning on modifying the transmission itself. Afterall, it's in good condition as is.
But here's one typical recent post suggesting mods, like this one for a change to the valve body that would "firm up" the shifts... "Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford What would that do for me Ryan and how hard is that to install? I know nothing about the inside of an automatic transmission and I hesitate modifying a tranny that's still in good condition. ... (response) The valve body is responsible for the shift firmness. Its pretty easy to remove the valve body. Drop the pan, remove shift linkage on trans, unbolt the filter, then the valve body is right there. I don't know anything about modifying them. They scare me with all the mazes and little balls that roll around in there. A tranny builder did my custom valve body for me." (end of response) I didn't think I recalled reading those of you with the 32RH had done much to it, is there anything I should be doing to it before bolting it up? I was leaning towards not modifying the tranny since it's apparently in very good condition as is. About the only other thing I'm probably going to do is to maybe replace the chain inside the t-case while it's out, maybe install a rebuild kit or wide chain kit. |
#33
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I'd just run it. Save the mods and money for if and when it needs a rebuild.
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Jeff |
#34
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I am Savvy. |
#35
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#36
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Jerry - I think there is a "kit" that corrects some of the issues with the stock TF999 (fluid circulation in park, etc), but doesn't mess with the shift firmness. Might be worth a PM to Fred to see what he suggests. I'm pretty sure that - and possibly relocating the vent - was all he did to his. I know when I had him rebuild the transmission in my Dodge truck we did something similar, although I opted to firm the shifts up a little for heavy towing.
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NOW: 1996 XJ, 4.0/AW4/NP242. 1.5" spacer/shackle lift, 30x9.50's, open both ends GONE: 1998 TJ, 4.0/5-speed. Currie lift. D44/HP D30, 4.88s, Detroits, Tera 4:1, 2-low. 35" MTRs "The man who loves other countries as much as his own stands on a level with the man who loves other women as much as he loves his own wife." "We can have no "50-50" allegiance in this country. Either a man is an American and nothing else, or he is not an American at all." Theodore Roosevelt |
#37
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"Sonnax has a manual valve you should install while it's out. It allows the torque converter to fill while it's in park, so you don't get that delayed movement after it sits a while when the crappy check valve in the cooling line goes out. If it craps out, the dealership wants $80+ for a replacement. I think I paid $7 or $8 for the manual valve." I sent him a PM into him asking for a little more info. |
#38
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You might want to relocate the vent for that odd time
we actually have some water around here and you’re in it to the cowl.
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Bruce Its just a sign of the times,,,,,,,,,,,, Going forward,,,in reverse,,,,,, ___________________________ ------------------------------------------- fourtreks.com |
#39
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Jerry,
Now that you mention it, I'm pretty sure Joe at Westminster Transmission did something to the transmission to eliminate any potential problem with check valve in the line seeping down (which it did after many years). That said, you 'll be putting in a new hose anyway and I'm not sure how easy or not it is to install the valve. I didn't have Joe relocate my breather as I don't plan on ever being in water that high. My suggestion to leave it be was based on K.I.S.S. and money, both of which were expressed concerns of yours. Good luck!
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Jeff |
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