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  #1  
Old 10-03-2004, 06:39 PM
Matt Pascoe Matt Pascoe is offline
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Sink more $$ in the D30 or swap it?

Currently on 33's but trying to make all my mods 35 friendly.

My D30 is locked (ARB) and geared to 4.56. The only real problem that I have with my D30 is I want to beef up the steering. Problem is the draglink connects to the tie rod which makes it hard to swap . Soo I'm considering the Tera knuckle and HD TR&DL from Sam'shttp://www.samsoffroad.com/samsoffroadsto/HighSteer.htm

BTW, I allready flipped the tierod with the goferit inserts.

The steering kit is ~$500. Warn hub conversion and shafts ~$1000. So thats $1500 more to put in the D30.

Are there any realistic axle swaps that will give me hubs/high steer/ARB and 4.56 in the $1500 -$2000 price range? I'm guessing the good HP44's have been pretty well picked through at the junkyards...

Just looking for a little reassurance that I'm not heading down the wrong road (again )

Thanks,

Matt
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  #2  
Old 10-03-2004, 07:54 PM
Paradiddle Paradiddle is offline
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I would run the Currie steering for $300 and do the Warn with the small hub and CTMs.

Several of us run this setup and it has worked great - these are JV built Jeeps - the D30 has great ground clearance and doesn't require any fabbing. When you run across a HP in a junkyard for cheap you can upgrade to that - all your parts except for gears will work.

Personally I'd get a HP9" before a HP44.

Jeff
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  #3  
Old 10-03-2004, 09:41 PM
John John is offline
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Sig file says he's got a YJ. He's already a HP axle, and Currie doesn't make anything for his steering.
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  #4  
Old 10-03-2004, 10:45 PM
Paradiddle Paradiddle is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by John
Sig file says he's got a YJ. He's already a HP axle, and Currie doesn't make anything for his steering.
Ooops.

Jeff
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  #5  
Old 10-04-2004, 08:00 AM
Matt Pascoe Matt Pascoe is offline
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Yes, its for my YJ with a HPD30. I took a peek at the currie steering and realized it was TJ specific.

I've heard dis-like for the Tera knuckle on this board, but I think that is in a TJ app. In the YJ I dont have swaybar/trackbar/coil bucket problems to worry about.

Jeff, any advantage to the small warn hubs besides bolt pattern? I have been planning on the 5-5.5 hubs.

Thanks,
Matt
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  #6  
Old 10-04-2004, 09:18 AM
Jeff Weston Jeff Weston is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Pascoe
Jeff, any advantage to the small warn hubs besides bolt pattern? I have been planning on the 5-5.5 hubs.

Thanks,
Matt
Different Jeff here, but changing out a hub on the 5x4.5 kit is as easy as changing a tire. Literally, remove wheel, lift off hub with hand and place new one on and replace tire. The 5x5.5 hubs look a little "cooler" but unless you already have 5x5.5 in the rear or are running larger tires than you should be on the D30, then I'd stick to the 5x4.5" kit. Besides, if you are ever out with any of us, you'll have better luck borrowing a spare.
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  #7  
Old 10-04-2004, 10:02 AM
Robert J. Yates Robert J. Yates is offline
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It comes down to money - the HP30 is very reliable in our experience if properly built. If you have the cash for a Warn kit and CTM's, its a nice way to go.

If you don't want so spend all that cash and seeing that you have a YJ, its also a bit easier to look at axle swaps. If I were looking to gain strength for the least amount of money, I'd be looking for a 44 or a 60 if I were you. Once you go that route, you can then zero in on your steering solution.
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  #8  
Old 10-04-2004, 10:02 AM
Matt Pascoe Matt Pascoe is offline
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Quote:
Besides, if you are ever out with any of us, you'll have better luck borrowing a spare.
Oooh... thats a very good point that I hadnt considered.

The 5x5.5 is stronger, costs the same and does look "cooler". I'm not opposed to changing rims and my rear shaft is dual drilled. So it seemed like the way to go.

I think you are correct though that the small hub is plenty strong for a D30 application and I really like the idea of keeping parts that are "common" to other Jeepers.

Thanks for the reply.

Matt
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  #9  
Old 10-04-2004, 03:35 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Pascoe
Oooh... thats a very good point that I hadnt considered.

The 5x5.5 is stronger, costs the same and does look "cooler". I'm not opposed to changing rims and my rear shaft is dual drilled. So it seemed like the way to go.

I think you are correct though that the small hub is plenty strong for a D30 application and I really like the idea of keeping parts that are "common" to other Jeepers.

Thanks for the reply.

Matt
Careful there when you say the 5.5 is stronger because some smartass like me will come along and ask you where it is stronger.
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  #10  
Old 10-05-2004, 08:13 PM
Matt Pascoe Matt Pascoe is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by mrblaine
Careful there when you say the 5.5 is stronger because some smartass like me will come along and ask you where it is stronger.
I'm just going on Warns recomendation that the 5x4.5 kit is not to be used on tires larger that 32".

I realize that there are several people that have had great sucess w/the small hub and large tires. It's their recomendations that have me questioning Warn's specs.

But... you did ask where it is stronger - The bearings are further apart (less leverage) which is a big advantage when running larger tires. Also, the small hub is built to 1/4 ton spec. large hub is 1/2 ton spec.


Matt
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  #11  
Old 10-06-2004, 12:39 AM
blkTJ blkTJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Pascoe
I'm just going on Warns recomendation that the 5x4.5 kit is not to be used on tires larger that 32".
FWIW, I'm sure Jeep would tell you not to run anything bigger than 30" tires on the stock D30.
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  #12  
Old 10-06-2004, 04:44 AM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Matt Pascoe
I'm just going on Warns recomendation that the 5x4.5 kit is not to be used on tires larger that 32".

I realize that there are several people that have had great sucess w/the small hub and large tires. It's their recomendations that have me questioning Warn's specs.

But... you did ask where it is stronger - The bearings are further apart (less leverage) which is a big advantage when running larger tires. Also, the small hub is built to 1/4 ton spec. large hub is 1/2 ton spec.


Matt
The major difference in strength is the hub. All other parts are interchangeable with the exception of the spindle and the bearings are only spaced further apart the depth of the grease seal.

If you offered a lifetime warranty on hubs, what size tire would you recommend?
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  #13  
Old 10-07-2004, 06:06 PM
NAILER341 NAILER341 is offline
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http://www.jeepbbs.net/forums/showth...&threadid=8119

take a look at this link for the steering mod i just did to my jeep.
it was relatively easy once i knew what i had to do, and attained the various specialty tools to get it done.

it appears to be working great, and i dont even have a steering damper on there yet.
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  #14  
Old 10-24-2004, 08:05 PM
Rockjock Rockjock is offline
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I have a professionally built High Pinion Dana 44 front axle for sale. It has Warn inner and outer Alloy shafts, CTM u-joints, ARB, 4.88 gears, Flat top knuckles w/ highsteer, Warn premium hubs, 3/4 ton Ford brakes, and it's 8 lug; which can be converted to 5 on 5.5 very easly. The housing is factory TJ, YJ, XJ, etc width. It is currently setup for spring over on a YJ.

There is well over $3K in it and I'm looking for $1800.00 firm.

Alloys and CTMs are brand new. The ARB and gears were installed last winter.



Rockjock15aol.com

Josh
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  #15  
Old 10-28-2004, 08:06 PM
LeadFoot LeadFoot is offline
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My friend bent his long side tube on his stock TJ 30 front end with a 4 cyc and open diffs. Stock axles are good for what they were designed for - stock or slightly modified. Now maybe the 44 still uses the same size u-joints, but you get a much broader range for gears, stronger tubes, bigger brakes, etc. Not to mention HP if you have a stock TJ axle.
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  #16  
Old 10-28-2004, 08:40 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by LeadFoot
My friend bent his long side tube on his stock TJ 30 front end with a 4 cyc and open diffs. Stock axles are good for what they were designed for - stock or slightly modified. Now maybe the 44 still uses the same size u-joints, but you get a much broader range for gears, stronger tubes, bigger brakes, etc. Not to mention HP if you have a stock TJ axle.
Your first sentence is why he bent it. 4 cyl means he used a ton of wheelspeed and momentum to do something, open diffs meant he really had to.

FWIW, if he was locked up, I doubt it would have bent.
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  #17  
Old 11-09-2004, 12:53 PM
Cue-Ball Cue-Ball is offline
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Alot of us ZJ guys have been building the Chevy 1 ton set up for steering and it works great.
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  #18  
Old 11-09-2004, 06:10 PM
Rockjock Rockjock is offline
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D44 is sold.
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  #19  
Old 11-16-2004, 09:19 PM
Overkill Overkill is offline
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How is the Currie setup TJ specific? I'm running the TJ Currie seteering on an XJ HP30 which is under my ZJ...

Or is thre something about the YJ HP30 I just don't know about and I'm now talking out of my ass?
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  #20  
Old 11-16-2004, 09:58 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Overkill
How is the Currie setup TJ specific? I'm running the TJ Currie seteering on an XJ HP30 which is under my ZJ...

Or is thre something about the YJ HP30 I just don't know about and I'm now talking out of my ass?
Depends on your lift. The XJ has a higher mounted steering box and the pitman TRE can easily run out of travel at droop on the passenger side.

If you get to where you are hearing pop when you turn, it's the TRE at the pitman that has worn out the spring that holds the preload on the ball on the end of the tapered pin. Also it has enlarged the socket that the ball rides in.

Typically it can be seen as you cycle the steering, the first movement will be up and then the knuckle will start to move.

The XJ has more travel down than up compared to the TJ thus the steering rides higher.
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  #21  
Old 11-16-2004, 10:33 PM
Scott Hill Scott Hill is offline
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I think you should ace the D30 and sell me the ARB at a good price.

but you can run 35's on a 30 and even 37's if you like to push your luck, with my set up I should go to Vegas cause I have been one lucky SOB.


Scott

PS
I am serious about the ARB make me a descent price and it is sold. the detroit SUCKS in the snow.
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  #22  
Old 11-17-2004, 01:17 AM
Jays89YJ Jays89YJ is offline
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IMO sinking money into a D30 is a complete waste. You are spending the same amount of money, if not more money on a weaker, smaller axle which will never be as strong as a D44/D60. You can get a D44 for next to nothing and completely rebuild it and toss a locker in it cheaper than beefing up the D30.

Think about it like investing money into stocks without buying options. Or Steelhorse vs any other brand. LOL.
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  #23  
Old 11-21-2004, 06:10 AM
ChrisO ChrisO is offline
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I really enjoy these D30 threads. Everybody has a story and opinion, which is a good thing. Nobody is wrong and all opinions are valid. With that said, here's my story, and I'm sticking to it!

The D30HP is a fine axle. It WILL hold up to mild ABUSE and 37's. I'm proof. I ran my D30HP (4.56, DL, Warn shafts & 5-5.5), CTM's, for two seasons with out one single problem. Never had the cover off or a hub off. Ran all the tough trails here in Colorado & Utah too.

The D30 has really good clearance, is lightweight and parts enter-changablity is great.

The D44 shares the same pinion spline count and axle joints, thus the only part stronger is the R&P teeth. Yes, availablity in JUNK yards is better but it takes just as much ($$$) to build a QUALITY D44 as it does a D30 and for what? A bigger ring gear?

The only reason I up-graded to my CHP is because I could!

I'll shut up now.
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  #24  
Old 11-21-2004, 08:24 PM
Jays89YJ Jays89YJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by ChrisO
I really enjoy these D30 threads. Everybody has a story and opinion, which is a good thing. Nobody is wrong and all opinions are valid. With that said, here's my story, and I'm sticking to it!

The D30HP is a fine axle. It WILL hold up to mild ABUSE and 37's. I'm proof. I ran my D30HP (4.56, DL, Warn shafts & 5-5.5), CTM's, for two seasons with out one single problem. Never had the cover off or a hub off. Ran all the tough trails here in Colorado & Utah too.

The D30 has really good clearance, is lightweight and parts enter-changablity is great.

The D44 shares the same pinion spline count and axle joints, thus the only part stronger is the R&P teeth. Yes, availablity in JUNK yards is better but it takes just as much ($$$) to build a QUALITY D44 as it does a D30 and for what? A bigger ring gear?

The only reason I up-graded to my CHP is because I could!

I'll shut up now.
Did your Jeep come with a D30HP? If the availability in junkyards favors D44's, that means they're cheaper to get a hold of in the first place. I don't see the sense in going out looking for a D30HP that will hold up to MILD abuse with larger tires. I'd go D44 or bigger.

Actually I believe parts for D44's are cheaper. If you deal with a 4x4 shop, you will get D44 parts much cheaper than D30 parts. Why? Because they don't carry D30 parts. Why? Becasue they swap out those axles all the time with D44's or bigger. Therefore they wouldn't carry or order parts for D30's ever. When they do, you'll pay premium price. Ordering more of something = cheaper.

How much did your D30HP wind up costing you in total?
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  #25  
Old 11-21-2004, 08:49 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jays89YJ
Did your Jeep come with a D30HP?
no

Quote:
How much did your D30HP wind up costing you in total?
I put a HP 30 in Kat's rig when we built it. I knew it was going in ahead of time and didn't waste any money on standard cut gears. I traded a geared axle straight across to a guy that had a HP and he paid shipping both from Michigan.

I didn't have much in the 3:07 housing. The HP axle was out of a 99, balljoints were still new.

OTOH, I built a HP 44 for mine and spent around 3 grand.

It's not as easy to toss a 44 anything under a TJ and I fail to see the effort rewarded correctly only to wind up with a low pinion axle.

For ease of install, you're better suited with a Currie HP 9 up front on a TJ.
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  #26  
Old 11-21-2004, 10:39 PM
Jays89YJ Jays89YJ is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by mrblaine
no



I put a HP 30 in Kat's rig when we built it. I knew it was going in ahead of time and didn't waste any money on standard cut gears. I traded a geared axle straight across to a guy that had a HP and he paid shipping both from Michigan.

I didn't have much in the 3:07 housing. The HP axle was out of a 99, balljoints were still new.

OTOH, I built a HP 44 for mine and spent around 3 grand.

It's not as easy to toss a 44 anything under a TJ and I fail to see the effort rewarded correctly only to wind up with a low pinion axle.

For ease of install, you're better suited with a Currie HP 9 up front on a TJ.
So you're telling me someone paid for you to get an D30HP?

BWAAAHAHAHHA. I put 2 D44's rebuilt, regeared and ARB locked front and rear under my YJ in 1 day. Plus for quite a bit less than 3 grand.

For ease of modifications YJ's > TJ's.
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  #27  
Old 11-21-2004, 11:06 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jays89YJ
So you're telling me someone paid for you to get an D30HP?

BWAAAHAHAHHA. I put 2 D44's rebuilt, regeared and ARB locked front and rear under my YJ in 1 day. Plus for quite a bit less than 3 grand.

For ease of modifications YJ's > TJ's.
Low pinion 44's are a dime a dozen. I much prefer if I am going to spend any time and money on an axle, to get the benefit of HP. I've spent way too much money fixing barber poled driveshafts to have it any other way.

The guy with the HP yanked it from a salvage yard. Wasn't too savvy on the swap, and had 3:07's in the one he bent and tore up the control arm mounts on. The one he shipped had 3:73's in it, so it was of no use to him on a limited budget due to the having to re-gear.

I did try and explain how easy the swap was, but when I got to the gear swap part, he offered to trade. What was I gonna say?
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  #28  
Old 11-22-2004, 09:09 AM
Robert J. Yates Robert J. Yates is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jays89YJ
For ease of modifications YJ's > TJ's.
For the front axle maybe but even with the LP44 up front, you are still driving a coal cart with funny headlights .

My HP30 took me 1/2 a day to install and cost me $100 for the housing a $200 for the gears. My Warn kit, brakes and knuckles swapped right over. No way would I saddle my rig with a LP waggy axle - thats like putting itty bitty knickers on Bridget Jones.
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  #29  
Old 11-22-2004, 12:22 PM
ChrisO ChrisO is offline
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My response/opinion was based on the fact that Matt Pascoe has a HP D30 in his YJ from the factory (as all do).

IMO, LP D44's are of no value what-so-ever in a YJ, CJ or TJ. I'd run a custom F9"housing with a CHP 3rd member, or just jump up to a D60HP.
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  #30  
Old 11-22-2004, 12:43 PM
ChrisO ChrisO is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jays89YJ
Did your Jeep come with a D30HP?
Yes, all YJ's had HPD30's.

Quote:
Originally posted by Jays89YJ
How much did your D30HP wind up costing you in total?
I had aprox. two grand in it. But that includes the following:
4.56 gears, Detroit Locker, Warn alloy shafts, CTM's, Warn 5on5.5" hub conversion.
Now, I have up graded to a F9". I re-used from the knuckles out (still have the 30 spline outers, hubs etc.) and the CTM's. All my steering worked from the D30 (had M.O.R.E. steering correction kit for SOA). BTW, my 30 spline outers make D44 (19 spline outers) look like tiny toys!!!

I sold the Detroit for 300, the warn D30 inners for 300/pair and still have the R&P & housing for sale.

Now, I'm not bad-mouthing anyone who opt's to go the D44 route. I just think that the HPD30 can be made to hold up very well to trail abuse, it is lighter weight, has better ground clearance and is about the same money as a custom built D44. Granted, you can pick up JUNK yard parts and keep them what-ever width they are, slam-em-in and go jeepin'. But for the person who has a HPD30, keep it!!!
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