tie rod

[xxxpedition]

hey, i've got a tie rod question:
i did about 3/4 of the lower duran (near calico ghost town) and my tie rod was too weak. it had a hardly noticable bend.

well, i didn't make it through because the bend got considerable



should i install a new stock one or really go for the 3-times-as-much alumiflex?
or reinforce the stock one by sliding a snug pipe over it and welding it at the ends?

check out the entire gallery:
http://xxxpedition.com/4x4GalleriesP...o/GALLERY.html

[TJeeper]

Most of us around here have installed the Currie HD steering system. Very strong, easy bolt on installation. Putting in a larger tie rod without strengthening the draglink only leads to bent draglinks. As for the Alumiflex, I do not own one, and I do not know anyone with one, so I can't offer an opinion.

[igofshn]

Originally posted by xxxpedition
hey, i've got a tie rod question:
i did about 3/4 of the lower duran (near calico ghost town) and my tie rod was too weak. it had a hardly noticable bend.

well, i didn't make it through because the bend got considerable



should i install a new stock one or really go for the 3-times-as-much alumiflex?
or reinforce the stock one by sliding a snug pipe over it and welding it at the ends?

check out the entire gallery:
http://xxxpedition.com/4x4GalleriesP...o/GALLERY.html

I have a Skyjacker I'll let go for $50 shipped.

[Chris L]

Originally posted by xxxpedition
it had a hardly noticable bend.

Hardly noticable???
I would go with the currie set up.

[xxxpedition]

thanks for the tips.
i have a new stock one at home. i throw that in for now, because i don't really want to go through the expense now.
i'll keep you posted...

[mrblaine]

You guys might wanna rethink suggesting the Currie for the Cherokee. By the time you get enough lift on one to use the Currie HD system, you have too much height and can easily overrun the travel at the pitman arm TRE.

Can be compensated for by bending the shank of the TRE, but most folks don't want to go to the effort.

[hssss]

Just a thought. This would fix a number of problems.
http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery/album24
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/bra...kles/index.htm

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by hssss
Just a thought. This would fix a number of problems.
http://wrangler.rutgers.edu/gallery/album24
http://www.4x4wire.com/jeep/tech/bra...kles/index.htm

What rotor are you using with the Cobra calipers?

Do you have this working yet?

If so, how is the braking?

[hssss]

First thanks for the info a while back. Everything is bolted together on the front end but the vehicle is still under construction. I used a '93 XJ D30 hp non disco 3.75:1 housing, 00 WJ knuckles, ORGS .25 spacer (stick welded to the knuckle), '93 XJ hubs, 99 Ford Crown Victoria rotors ($40 at Autozone), '96 Cobra caliper and bracket, '93 Xj axle shafts. No modifications were required other than welding the spacers and slight grinding on the brackets for clearance with the rotor, other than that everything BOLTS together. The advantage of the Crown Vic rotors is that they are 12.25x1.1 which is the prefect size and cost about half what the sport Track rotors do. Also the Sport track rotors are a little small in both dimensions(12x1). The remainder of the brake system will be Cobra rear brakes, proportioning/distribution block (will mod and add adj proportioning if needed), and Cobra Hydroboost and MC. The one disadvantage is that I am going to have to find longer wheel studs because the rotors are thicker than the 2 piece stock. Though I can't test it yet I am very pleased with how it went together and have no doubt that with about 2200 lbs to stop it will be bout like throwing out an anchor. For what its worth I also used the WJ upper/lower control arms because they are much stouter and give more tire clearance. The one last detail is the tie rod and drag link do you have a source for these??

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by hssss
First thanks for the info a while back. Everything is bolted together on the front end but the vehicle is still under construction. I used a '93 XJ D30 hp non disco 3.75:1 housing, 00 WJ knuckles, ORGS .25 spacer (stick welded to the knuckle), '93 XJ hubs, 99 Ford Crown Victoria rotors ($40 at Autozone), '96 Cobra caliper and bracket, '93 Xj axle shafts. No modifications were required other than welding the spacers and slight grinding on the brackets for clearance with the rotor, other than that everything BOLTS together. The advantage of the Crown Vic rotors is that they are 12.25x1.1 which is the prefect size and cost about half what the sport Track rotors do. Also the Sport track rotors are a little small in both dimensions(12x1). The remainder of the brake system will be Cobra rear brakes, proportioning/distribution block (will mod and add adj proportioning if needed), and Cobra Hydroboost and MC. The one disadvantage is that I am going to have to find longer wheel studs because the rotors are thicker than the 2 piece stock. Though I can't test it yet I am very pleased with how it went together and have no doubt that with about 2200 lbs to stop it will be bout like throwing out an anchor. For what its worth I also used the WJ upper/lower control arms because they are much stouter and give more tire clearance. The one last detail is the tie rod and drag link do you have a source for these??

If you are not flipping to the top of the knuckles, the only source is the jeep dealer. Actually, even if you do flip to the top, the dealer is the only source.

The WJ stuff does not require replacement enough at this point for the aftermarket to pick it up.

I had that discussion with my very excellent undercar parts supplier. He also drives a WJ. He said that since 99 when the WJ was intro'd, he has not had one call for TRE's and I am the only one who has inquired about buying them.

I do recommend the WJ pitman for the longer throw the WJ knuckles need.

[hssss]

The TRE are fine and I'm not flipping unless I need to for the drag link geometry. The WJ tie rods are too long and I don't realy like the idea of cut and paste on that critical a steering part. JKS has them but at about $100 ea. I was just wondering if you had a supplier? The steering arm I'm using for now is off a XJ, I believe it has a little more drop and best of all it's the only one i have for now. I may be using a Pontiac TA WS6 steering box for the steering ratio, this things gonna be a handfull and if I can make the steering faster thats even better.

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by hssss
The TRE are fine and I'm not flipping unless I need to for the drag link geometry. The WJ tie rods are too long and I don't realy like the idea of cut and paste on that critical a steering part. JKS has them but at about $100 ea. I was just wondering if you had a supplier? The steering arm I'm using for now is off a XJ, I believe it has a little more drop and best of all it's the only one i have for now. I may be using a Pontiac TA WS6 steering box for the steering ratio, this things gonna be a handfull and if I can make the steering faster thats even better.

I may know where there are some tube adapters, jam nuts to fit chromemolly tubing. I also have taps for the 24x1.5 pitch in right and left hand if you want to tap and drill solid.

[hssss]

It seems like chromemolly or dom would be the best. In the interest of not stealing the other guys thread a phone conversation would probably be fastest. Pm me if thats ok and what is a best time.