G-Tech results!!!

[Hellbender]

Here are my results while playing today....

Rear wheel HP (average of 9 runs, throw out high and low)------ 127.14 HP (hi-138, low-115 the rest between 121-128)

1/4 mile time/speed (average of 3 runs)------19.2 seconds @ 73.7 MPH (hi-19.10/74.5, low-19.37/72.5)

60-0 MPH stopping distance (average 3 runs)-------168 ft. (hi-170 ft, low-165 ft)

This thing is cool, wish I would have had it 10 years ago.

The acceleration/HP measurements are simple, it made little difference if I shifted manually or just left it in drive.

The braking is a little harder to be consistent, the road surface was critical, and there's a fine line between locking them up and not. I think w/ more practice (& different road surfaces) I could knock another few ft.(3-5) off the measurement. (I am VERY happy w/ my brake performance/balance, very controllable)

This thing is very accurate, for a test, I did a HP run on a slight grade both ways (up and downhill) the runs were 115 and 138 (126.5 average).

These runs were done with my rig in "normal" summer configuration, ie, no top, no doors, full tank of fuel (Weighed today.............................4600 lbs w/ me (190 lbs) aboard, scary huh?)

The actual performance numbers are insignificant, what is important is a baseline measurement for mods, if we can get a database for rigs w/ different mods, we will know that going from 32" to 35" tires will add approx. X # of ft. to your stopping distance and cost you X HP (and reduce fuel mileage accordingly).

OR, adding Blaines new brakes will reduce stopping distance from X to X,

Or you will know that you changed brake shoes from brand X to X and it helped (or hurt).

My new tires (Q78 swampers) will be here in a day or 2, I'm curious to see how many HP they will require to turn and how many ft they will add to stopping distance.

I'm going to stick my K&N filter back in and see how much it really helps.

My friend has a totally stock rig I will run some tests on in a few days.

When I get done playing (in a coupla weeks), I will loan this thing out to anyone I feel comfy with.

Blaine---would you be willing to be the first participant??? You will have access to a lot of rigs locally and I'm very interested in some braking data on your mods.

2000 TJ 4.0L, A/T, all factory options.
Jeep Rater Score 360
http://www.hellbender.rockcrawler.com/
NRA Lifetime Member

[TObject]

Wow! Sounds great!

I really want to know how much does a K&N filter really add in terms of horsepower to a jeep. Does it really worth all that garbage it lets through into the engine (my guess it doesn’t, but I want to see numbers!)

There is a little hold up with the Jeep Friends Community G-Tech!!! project development due to me moving all my stuff to the new place. I plan to start actually cranking the code within a week and a half. At the time I am working on the deal to get cheap licensing for the database server software.

[Hellbender]

TObject- When you get down to it, if you don't mind, e-mail me your phone # and we'll discuss the stuff we need in the d-base.

We'll also need a standard form to fill in w/ data on the rig, conditions, etc.

Thanks
Brad

2000 TJ 4.0L, A/T, all factory options.
Jeep Rater Score 360
http://www.hellbender.rockcrawler.com/
NRA Lifetime Member

[mrblaine]

Brad- Kat's jeep is about 97 percent. I have a few little niggleing problems that are plagueing me. All of them are brake related.

The first is bleeding those stinking Wilwood calipers. I have gravity, manual, and power bled those things. I still have pulling to the right.

I have the rears working really well. They will lock the 35's under extreme braking. This is without pulling the 0-ring in the combo valve.

I am going to digest things a bit and then start an intense diagnostic process. First I will swap pads from side to side and then I will swap calipers. The good news is that the Wilwoods like to see 1000 psi of line pressure and we are generating over 1200 psi. This is an educated guess as we are maxing out a 1000 psi gauge for checking line pressure.

I was afraid that the increased bore of the new master would decrease line pressure to an uncomfortable point. I still feel that pedal pressure is a tad bit high.

I would definitely be interested in the G-tech database for braking distances. I would really like to know what my green jeep does.

It is not who you know, It is who knows you

Jeeps do not make jeepers, jeepers make Jeeps.

[Hellbender]

All those pistons make for a lot of potential places to trap air and/or passages to get some grit in, but you know that.

But it should be killer when you get it done.

Good luck.

2000 TJ 4.0L, A/T, all factory options.
Jeep Rater Score 360
http://www.hellbender.rockcrawler.com/
NRA Lifetime Member

[Hellbender]

Blaine-
I noticed on the pic of the calipers that the bleeders are not on top of the pistons. Do you have to lay the calipers (w/rotors) on thier sides to bleed them properly?

2000 TJ 4.0L, A/T, all factory options.
Jeep Rater Score 360
http://www.hellbender.rockcrawler.com/
NRA Lifetime Member

[mrblaine]

I am thinking that it is the passage between the two sides. The high speed power bleed did not work. I am in serious contemplation about this.

It is not who you know, It is who knows you

Jeeps do not make jeepers, jeepers make Jeeps.

[Jim B]

Blaine,

Don't know much or have not seen the Willwood brakes for the rear but if the bleeder is down like on the Cadillac brakes, HB has a good point as I've seen a friend's Caddilac system improve once he took them out of the rotors to bleed them.

HB
All that G-tech info sounds neat. Having a form with all these tests results with different configurations can aid to some degree of what works or not.

Jim B.

97TJ El Niño, Mods listed on Web Site.
JJB@worldoversea.com
http://www.jeep.worldoversea.com
Jeep Rater Score: 42

[mrblaine]

The Wilwoods are a fixed caliper with floating pistons. There is an internal passage between the two sides. There are four bleeders on the caliper. This is because they are universal and can be moved from side to side. The problem is the internal passage. I took them off today and tapped on them while I was bleeding them. This dislodged some more air. Not perfect yet, but definitely an improvement. I did not know it was possible to lock up a 35 in MT/R on the front of a jeep. I can do that now. The next step is a big vibrator of some sort. Probably my random orbit sander against the body of the caliper.

It is not who you know, It is who knows you

Jeeps do not make jeepers, jeepers make Jeeps.