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  #1  
Old 08-12-2003, 11:37 AM
John John is offline
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skid plate

Looks like I'll need to make something to put under the Jeep when this is all said and done. What to use is the question
A friend recommened 304 Stainless, I know Blaine's been using aluminum, and then there's good old fashioned steel.
Thoughts?
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  #2  
Old 08-12-2003, 01:18 PM
Robert J. Yates Robert J. Yates is offline
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Seems to me the only question you need to ask yourself is how much money do you want to spend
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  #3  
Old 08-12-2003, 01:23 PM
John John is offline
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Let's say that money isn't the issue. I have access to any of the materials I need, and a shop to make them in to a skid plate
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  #4  
Old 08-12-2003, 02:44 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by John
Let's say that money isn't the issue. I have access to any of the materials I need, and a shop to make them in to a skid plate
If money isn't an issue, what are your priorities?
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Old 08-12-2003, 02:48 PM
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Durability, but within reason. I'm not going to try and source a sheet of titanium or something like that.
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  #6  
Old 08-12-2003, 05:25 PM
Allen Allen is offline
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Hey,

I could use one too.....

So while you're at it.....

Allen
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Old 08-12-2003, 06:24 PM
John John is offline
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Sorry Allen, I don't have any TJ's around me to use as a template
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  #8  
Old 08-12-2003, 06:58 PM
Allen Allen is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by John
Sorry Allen, I don't have any TJ's around me to use as a template
Wing it!

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  #9  
Old 08-12-2003, 07:40 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by John
Durability, but within reason. I'm not going to try and source a sheet of titanium or something like that.
What about weight?
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Old 08-12-2003, 08:44 PM
Scott Scott is offline
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John, I would think 3/16" aluminum would be too thin if you plan on doing a lot of bashing, but 1/4" aluminum would probably hold up. Also, I know that 3/16" steel will holdup, so maybe you should take some wieght comparisons between aluminum and steel? Blaine, what thickness aluminum are you running? And are you having sucess?
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  #11  
Old 08-12-2003, 09:18 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Scott
John, I would think 3/16" aluminum would be too thin if you plan on doing a lot of bashing, but 1/4" aluminum would probably hold up. Also, I know that 3/16" steel will holdup, so maybe you should take some wieght comparisons between aluminum and steel? Blaine, what thickness aluminum are you running? And are you having sucess?
Scott
I am running 5/16's, but am making a new one out of 3/8's.

I would be better served if I ran the weight of the drivetrain on the skid instead of a separate crossmember. I play on the skid pretty hard and have tendencies to bow it slightly upwards until it hits the crossmember. No biggie, just something that bugs me.
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  #12  
Old 08-12-2003, 10:00 PM
ChrisK ChrisK is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by mrblaine
I am running 5/16's, but am making a new one out of 3/8's.

I would be better served if I ran the weight of the drivetrain on the skid instead of a separate crossmember. I play on the skid pretty hard and have tendencies to bow it slightly upwards until it hits the crossmember. No biggie, just something that bugs me.
What alloy are you using?
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  #13  
Old 08-13-2003, 07:44 AM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by ChrisK
What alloy are you using?
I am using 6061 T-651 tool plate.

Some are running 1/4" 7075, more expensive, but considerably tougher and resistant to bending. 1/4" will work with that alloy.
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  #14  
Old 08-13-2003, 08:10 AM
Allen Allen is offline
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How insane would I be if I said I wanted to make one out of 1/2" steel plate?

Very little reinforcement that way.

And I don't care about weight, especially so low.....

If I'm gonna go through all the hassle of making my own, I'm doing it once and only once. I'd have a conniption if I bent it or otherwise had to replace it.....

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Old 08-13-2003, 08:27 AM
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Weight isn't an issue for me either, but I don't see me using that 1/2" plate like Allen
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  #16  
Old 08-13-2003, 09:27 AM
Robert J. Yates Robert J. Yates is offline
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3/16ths steel does not work all that good if not adequately braced. My Tera belly-up plate has taught me that lesson.

I disagree wwith you Allen about weight - even though its down low as you say, any un-necessary weight IMO is a waste and hinders the performance of the vehicle.

Personally, I would go for the Al given what I can see from Blaines' experience with it. If I could get all Al bumpers, corners and skids onto my rig, I would be a happy camper.
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  #17  
Old 08-13-2003, 09:29 AM
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Blaine, got any pics of how your skid plate looks currently?
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  #18  
Old 08-13-2003, 09:34 AM
Allen Allen is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Robert J. Yates
3/16ths steel does not work all that good if not adequately braced. My Tera belly-up plate has taught me that lesson.

I disagree wwith you Allen about weight - even though its down low as you say, any un-necessary weight IMO is a waste and hinders the performance of the vehicle.

Personally, I would go for the Al given what I can see from Blaines' experience with it. If I could get all Al bumpers, corners and skids onto my rig, I would be a happy camper.
Aluminum and salt don't mix.....consider yourselves lucky.

And I hear ya on weight. I understand it's effects, but really, when comparing a 1/2" to a skid to a skid made of 1/4" or 3/8", but with braces such as angle iron, the diffrence can't be much.

Will I use 1/2"? Maybe. I don't know. I'm just starting to look into making my own because I'm either not happy with what's out there, or I'm unwilling to pay what they're asking.

Allen
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  #19  
Old 08-13-2003, 09:43 AM
Jeepincj7 Jeepincj7 is offline
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John,
You need to take a look at mine sometime. Mine is 1/4" steel. Its one piece bent to the contours of the frame. Its heavy, but it also has to hold up a 210lb tranny. I can jack up the whole Jeep onto it and it doesn't flex. I sleeved the frame with cromoly sleeves, and used 1/2" bolts through the frame to hold it up. I've landed on it pretty hard a few times, and it won't budge.



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  #20  
Old 08-13-2003, 09:50 AM
John John is offline
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It just so happens that I'm supposed to go to Murrietta this weekend or next Scott, I could stop by and look at it then if time permits.
Shoot me directions from the 15, in case I forget a turn or street name.
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  #21  
Old 08-13-2003, 10:27 AM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by John
Blaine, got any pics of how your skid plate looks currently?


Clearance is clearance and every inch up with the skid is equivalent to 2" bigger tires under the belly. I saw no reason to put the effort into making a flat skid that was not flat to the frame.
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  #22  
Old 08-13-2003, 10:40 AM
Jeepincj7 Jeepincj7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by mrblaine


Clearance is clearance and every inch up with the skid is equivalent to 2" bigger tires under the belly. I saw no reason to put the effort into making a flat skid that was not flat to the frame.
Without a 3" body lift, 2" motor mount lift(which they don't make for a CJ), and cutting a lot of sheet metal out of the tub, there is no way to make a flat skid to the frame on a CJ with the NV4500.

If I could have I would have, but to be honest, I have never had an issue where the skid hung me up from moving. I still have 22" between the belly and the ground.

The NV hangs as low as an unclocked Dana 300. Not saying that John couldn't work a flat skid into the mix. If he has the clearance to stuff everything up that high, then he should. I unfortunately did not have that option.
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  #23  
Old 08-13-2003, 10:42 AM
John John is offline
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I will have a flat skid, or at least within a 1/2" or so of one. Drilled the AA adapter to clock the D20 up and used a channel crossmember to hold the whole thing up. There's a piece of 3/16" strap welded to the bottom of it to keep it from bending, and since the bolts that go in to the adapter hang that low anyway.
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  #24  
Old 08-13-2003, 11:15 AM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeepincj7
Without a 3" body lift, 2" motor mount lift(which they don't make for a CJ), and cutting a lot of sheet metal out of the tub, there is no way to make a flat skid to the frame on a CJ with the NV4500.

If I could have I would have, but to be honest, I have never had an issue where the skid hung me up from moving. I still have 22" between the belly and the ground.

The NV hangs as low as an unclocked Dana 300. Not saying that John couldn't work a flat skid into the mix. If he has the clearance to stuff everything up that high, then he should. I unfortunately did not have that option.
A little sensitive eh?

I didn't mean to imply that my priorities should be yours. They are just that, mine and thus the reasoning I explained to back them up.

You got yours, I got mine.
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  #25  
Old 08-13-2003, 11:16 AM
Allen Allen is offline
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Mine will hang down 1/2" to 1".

I'm not prepared to do the extra work to go totally flat.

Some gain in clearance is better than none at all, the way I see it.

Others may beg to differ.....

Allen
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  #26  
Old 08-13-2003, 11:40 AM
Jeepincj7 Jeepincj7 is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by mrblaine
A little sensitive eh?

I didn't mean to imply that my priorities should be yours. They are just that, mine and thus the reasoning I explained to back them up.

You got yours, I got mine.
I'm not really sensitive at all. Just seems to me that all to often that its either your way or the wrong way.
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  #27  
Old 08-13-2003, 12:31 PM
BlueJeeper BlueJeeper is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Allen
Aluminum and salt don't mix.....consider yourselves lucky.
Allen,

I was under the impression that even untreated 6061, while not the best alloy in terms of corrosion resistance, is still a marine grade alloy. It is definitely used in a number of salt-water applications. Am I missing something?

Thanks,
Rick
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  #28  
Old 08-13-2003, 03:25 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jeepincj7
I'm not really sensitive at all. Just seems to me that all to often that its either your way or the wrong way.
Only if I'm right. BTW- if you really think that, you suck at paying attention. If it truly bothers you, you can unfind this place the same way you found it.

I tossed that bit of info in there because you and I are not the only ones involved in putting flat skids on rigs and some may not be familiar with the amount of work that goes into one, the benefits reaped or the logic behind certain modifications.

Go back to the beginning of this thread and read it again. I didn't jump in and tell anyone how to do anything. I was asked, I answered. I gave my reasoning why. What's your problem with that?
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  #29  
Old 08-13-2003, 03:43 PM
Allen Allen is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Rick Bernotas
Allen,

I was under the impression that even untreated 6061, while not the best alloy in terms of corrosion resistance, is still a marine grade alloy. It is definitely used in a number of salt-water applications. Am I missing something?

Thanks,
Rick
Nope.

I'm probably missing something as I don't work a lot with aluminum. In fact, very little. It's just easier for me to assume that all aluminum reacts violently with a saltwater mix, corrodes instantly, and falls off my rig, than it is to look up the specs and possible uses.

Besides, I'm not set up to weld aluminum.....

So steel it is!

Allen
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  #30  
Old 08-13-2003, 03:59 PM
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I went with 3/8" steel simply because that's the piece they had at the scrap steel yard that was big enough to make a 1 piece skid. It is pretty dang heavy, but I haven't bent it yet so it makes me happy.

I cut about 4" off the sides of the stock skid, drilled 1" (approx) holes over the tapered mounting holes, and welded the plate over the skid. Then I used the stock bolts to mount it. They are recessed above th bottom of the skid, and it's flat all the way across, although it is about 3/4" below the bottom of the frame.

Then I modified the engine skid (Skid Row) so it was raised to the same height. It's ugly as heck (especially my welds) but it works for me.
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