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  #1  
Old 11-11-2001, 04:12 PM
Art Welch Art Welch is offline
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Trailers

Can anyone point me to an online resource about trailers? It's used trailer buying time for me and I'd like to build up a bit of knowledge before I start calling on ads. FWIW, if you know anyone in the LA area selling suitable a double axle trailer (would be hauling a TJ, but a little wider than normal - 84" on the deck or wider) let me know.
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  #2  
Old 11-11-2001, 04:41 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Art Welch:
Can anyone point me to an online resource about trailers? It's used trailer buying time for me and I'd like to build up a bit of knowledge before I start calling on ads. FWIW, if you know anyone in the LA area selling suitable a double axle trailer (would be hauling a TJ, but a little wider than normal - 84" on the deck or wider) let me know.[/quote]

Art- After owning a trailer for awhile now, I can finally offer some educated suggestions.

A trailer without a full deck and only runners for the tires is more desireable because the open center makes it easy to inspect and work on the undercarriage should the need arise.

Get something heavier than the typical 7500 lb. rating that is too common in these type trailers.

Get electric brakes on both axles. You will not regret it.

Make sure the fenders are not welded on. Makes it very hard to keep the trailer looking halfway decent if one should get damaged. It is highly likely that they will at some point in time.

See if you can get one with more tiedown points than you think are necessary. Comes in very handy.

Set it up to tie down over the tires and not stretch out the suspension. I have ruined a set of expensive heims by doing the big axle stretch and would not recommend that others make the same mistake.

Go over the tires similar to a tow dolly, and then some tension straps to stop body roll. Much safer that way.

Most parking pawls in trucks nowadays are not very stout. E-brakes suffer from the same minimal design functions. This means when you load your jeep on the trailer, a pair of tongue jacks at the rear corners will stop the trailer from pushing your truck around. I use jackstands and it helps alot.

Pair of places for a rear safety line around the rear axle or to the rear bumper. Few of us have enough horsepower to make the jeep break it's tethers on take-off, but a front end collision could send the jeep into the rear of our tow rig. Not Good! I use a safety chain around the rear axle.

Get a removeable tongue jack and not one welded up through the "V" in the tongue. They always get bent and the removeable ones are easy to replace.

Make sure there is a spare tire carrier on the trailer somewhere and that the spare matches.

Last but not least, make sure there is room for a good trailer box at the front or a pair on the sides near the front. Very handy for storing all the misc crap you use with your trailer.

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  #3  
Old 11-11-2001, 06:21 PM
Art Welch Art Welch is offline
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Thanks Blaine. Great info - I appreciate it.
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  #4  
Old 11-11-2001, 07:00 PM
TJRON TJRON is offline
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The safety chain is a great idea.

Here in Boulder City we get to see boats on top of tow vehicles all the time.
A good slam on the brakes or collision and the boat just keeps on going!
Ron
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  #5  
Old 11-11-2001, 08:12 PM
HIGLET HIGLET is offline
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This has got to be the single best amount of info I have ever gotten. I've been thinking about getting a trailer, and of course a truck to tow it with. Now I actually know what to look for in a trailer without a lot of afterwards "Oh I wish it just had..."

Thanks Blaine, I'm printing this for my records.

Sean M Higgins
higs@higsrigs.com




Beers are never strangers, just friends who's heads you haven't ripped off and sucked all the life out of, before smashing them in the trash barrel.
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  #6  
Old 11-11-2001, 08:22 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by HigsRigs:
This has got to be the single best amount of info I have ever gotten. I've been thinking about getting a trailer, and of course a truck to tow it with. Now I actually know what to look for in a trailer without a lot of afterwards "Oh I wish it just had..."

Thanks Blaine, I'm printing this for my records.

Sean M Higgins
higs@higsrigs.com)

http://www.higsrigs.com/bbs/Hammer.gif


Beers are never strangers, just friends who's heads you haven't ripped off and sucked all the life out of, before smashing them in the trash barrel.
[/quote]

Would you care to guess how many of the above criteria actually apply to my current trailer? Try none. Those are all learned the hard way. Want to buy a diametrically opposed vehicular transportation device?

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  #7  
Old 11-11-2001, 08:27 PM
Scott Hill Scott Hill is offline
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I was starting to wonder if you where trying to dump the trailer you have after reading every thing you want/need it did not sound like the trailer I saw you use last.

a little TJ with a few mods check her out at www.real-jeeps.com
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  #8  
Old 11-11-2001, 09:51 PM
Jeff Weston Jeff Weston is offline
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Good points which all seem to make sense that I'm sure are easily overlooked. I borrowed a friend's trailer and the removable fenders were really trick. With the pull of a couple of lyinchpins the fenders were off keeping us from trashing them when taking the trailer in and out of it's tight trailer space.

It doesn't really matter since you're towing a Jeep, but a small winch is really nice when you're trying to load up a car that isn't running. It was really nice on our backs!

Jeff
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  #9  
Old 11-12-2001, 10:47 PM
Brad Kilby Brad Kilby is offline
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Blaine has some very good pointers but one I don't agree with (fully) is the open center trailer. If you broke something on your rig, you normally have plenty of space on the ground to inspect your rig and if your rig was on the trailer, with a full deck you lay on your back like any other day.

There's other things to consider here like carrying other objects etc. With an open center, good luck. I have my trailer setup to carry my kids 3 wheeler and a ton of firewood when we go camping. I'm not saying this is what you should do, just saying to think about how you're going to use the trailer in the future.

That being said, if you want to save a ton of weight, and I mean a lot, get the open center. My trailer is nice and strong but it sure is heavy.

Something else to think about is the rear of the deck. Trailers come in a flat bed and dove tail variety. Dove tail is where the back of the trailer angles down for better loading and unloading angles. For Jeeps, it's useless. With the trailer empty, I'd drag the tail coming out of just about any driveway (lowrider). It makes a great land mover in the desert too. I ended up taking my new trailer and doing a SOA conversion on it.

Ok, on to the ramps. Where are they stored? Might seem trivial now but try to unload the ramp out the side when your trailer is 2' away from a wall. Mine are stored under the deck, through the back, not sides. That was my personal preference.
Like Blaine said, brakes on both axles should be a must. Bearing Buddies are nice and handy too. Don't forget to think about a steel deck or wood deck.

http://www.dehesa4x4.com/bkilby/
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  #10  
Old 11-13-2001, 05:43 AM
Hellbender Hellbender is offline
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Watch the lights also, they either need to be easily replacable or better yet, protected, they are always getting broken out.

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  #11  
Old 11-13-2001, 12:33 PM
Robert J. Yates Robert J. Yates is offline
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<BLOCKQUOTE><font size="-1">quote:</font><HR>Originally posted by Hellbender:
Watch the lights also, they either need to be easily replacable or better yet, protected, they are always getting broken out.

2000 TJ 4.0L, A/T, all factory options.
Jeep Rater Score 360
http://www.hellbender.rockcrawler.com/
NRA Lifetime Member[/quote]

Nice advice coming form a guy who was raking us over pretty bad about towing our rigs around

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  #12  
Old 11-19-2001, 08:23 PM
Art Welch Art Welch is offline
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For grins I ordered a set of blueprints from Northern Tool today for an 18x7 trailer. Anybody built their own trailer from one of these? I've priced it out preliminarily and it seems like it would be very cost effective. Looking at the trailers I've rented in the past they are very simple.

My big question going this route is how in the heck do you register a home built trailer? Can you in California?
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  #13  
Old 11-20-2001, 03:06 AM
Tumbleweed Tumbleweed is offline
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I tend to agree with Brad on the full deck trailer. I can and do use my trailer as a large utility trailer on many occasions. (Note: so does anyone I know, thinking why should they rent a U-Haul when they can borrow mine to trash it up, and save $19.) It is sort of like having a pickup, everyone wants to use it. I also believe they would be better for resale value.
Thought # 2: Get the "Bulldog" style of coupler for the trailer ball, they are 50% stronger.
#3: If you are going to paint your wood deck trailer, put sand or glass beads into the paint for some traction aid. I realize many of you don't get frost, but there is nothing slicker than my trailer deck with frost on it.
#4: Get the longest loading ramps you can fit under the trailer, makes pushing a Jeep onto the trailer much easier; and for other items.
#5: I have a 15" high side rail on my trailer and love it. Keeps coolers and such in place.
Watch the height so you can open doors, etc.
#6: Get the "break-away" battery option that sets your electric brakes in event of a disconnect. They are pretty cheap.
#7: Tongue jacks, watch where they are placed so you can still open your tailgate with the trailer attached.
#8: Put that sticky traction tape they use on boat trailers on top of the fenders. Yes Virgina, you will eventually stand on those shiny/slick fenders. (See frost part above.)
#9: An annual coat of wax does wonders for cleaning up your trailer.
#10: See if your tow rig's insurance covers your trailer in an accident. You might be surprised.
#11: Bearing buddies are a must. Just like boat trailers where you can grease the hubs without pulling anything off.
#12: Ramps, make sure they can be placed anywhere across the back of the trailer; and not just two specific spots. You never know what width you might need.
#13: An old broken off CB antenae makes a great "centering device" for hooking up your trailer, since you can't see through your tailgate.
#14: Place your front, amber marking lights where you can see them in your mirrors at night.
No more guessing what the trailer is doing after dark.
#15: Use an "EZ lift" or sway bar set up on the tongue. This transfers weight to the tow rig frame and makes a world of difference for swaying.
Cross winds, rough roads, etc. Not cheap but worth every penny. Not everyones tow rig is a one ton dually.

[This message was edited by Tumbleweed on November 20, 2001 at 04:33 AM.]
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  #14  
Old 11-20-2001, 04:47 AM
Jim B Jim B is offline
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Back up lights mounted on top or around the tail lights of the trailer. I've always used these and they are great. Has anyone here ever pulled into camp during the night?

You will be able to back up and actually see in total darkness.

Jim B.

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  #15  
Old 12-19-2001, 06:18 PM
Texas ZJ1 Texas ZJ1 is offline
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I happened to tow a trailer one day that was brand new and the tires were freakin slick as crap.

Make sure to get some decent tires.

Somebody had a trailer with some great fabbed up center on the axle that ended up with some serious ground clearance.

I would go for the regular ball type hitch mount unless you are looking for a trail type of trailer. Then, I would go for the pintle hitch mount.

Hunter

94 V8 Red Grand Cherokee, RE lift, mud tires and more.
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