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  #1  
Old 10-23-2002, 03:04 PM
Wind_Danzer Wind_Danzer is offline
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Wow the search here works. hehehe Ok, here's my question. Driveshafts, need advise

Howdy all.

I have a few questions on pinion angle, measuring for a new rear DS after a belly up and what brand or person has a good track record with people here.

1. Pinion angle is determined by adjusting the rear arms so that it's pointing towards the t-case right. If so, where exactly do you stop in the adjustment.

2. I'm going to have a Jeep on 31's, D35, 2" BB and 1"BL (not sure if that matters in the measurement for the DS). How does one go about measuring for the new DS for the rear after a belly up and establishing proper pinion angle?

3. I know there is Tom Woods, HAD, personal shops. Are there any others I sould consider? If you suggest a personal shop, what info do I have to supply them? I did have a good shop that OK4WD uses in Easton, PA who fixed up my front DS and did a good job for me.

Lastly, is there anyway to estimate without having anything done, what length I'd need for the rear? Is there any special info that is needed or is it all about measuring once it's done?

Thanks all

BTW, I'd thinkI could find a majority of this info if the damn search on JU would work.
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  #2  
Old 10-23-2002, 04:36 PM
Jerry Bransford Jerry Bransford is offline
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For a CV driveshaft, the rear pinion shaft should point directly at the t-case output shaft, which means it should point directly up in line with the driveshaft. Ideally and technically, it should point one degree under that of the driveshaft to counteract the slight pinion-raising effect of axle-wrap that happens during acceleration. If it were pointed a little too high, higher than the driveshaft, it's theoretically possible a little vibration might happen during acceleration. I used a two-magnetic-edged angle finder I bought from Sears to set mine but others here like Robert Yates have success by just eyeballing the angle.

The length of the stock driveshaft is measured from the center of the rear u-joint to the front of the front splined joint boot. I think Tom Wood includes an illustration of how to measure on his website. And actually, Tom Wood has done so many TJ CV driveshafts that he can just about tell you exactly the length of CV driveshaft you need once you tell him your lift height and axle type. Tom is very patient and helpful, he's used to guiding people through what's needed to get the right length... which isn't exactly super-critical anyway.
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  #3  
Old 10-24-2002, 09:28 AM
Robert J. Yates Robert J. Yates is offline
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Jerry is correct that I do not use an angle finder. I bought one and then couldn't decide where to place it so I eyeballed it and since then have eyeballed several others. He is also correct that the DS needs to be pointed at the output shaft of the t-case for a CV style driveshaft, although I am not convinced about the 1* thing and see that as splitting hairs. What I have found is that being close is ok as you typically are inside u-joint tolerances and things run fine, unless you have a ton of lift and then it becomes a little more finnicky.

As for where to get one, I say go local as that way you can develop a raporte with the maker and if you have any problems, its easy to go back. I have also heard a few rumours about Tom Woods quality. No personal experience mind you but dealing with a couple of driveline shops has clued me in to what consitutes real quality and 2 of the guys I know making driveshafts have had to re-work a couple of Woods products. That isn't a knock on him, he didn't get his rep for nothing but between that and having to ship, I say forget about it and go local. Ask for all Spicer parts, CV, yokes, tubing and u-joints and you won't go wrong.

As for length, if you don't want to measure after you do the flat skid (which is how it should be done), you can figure that most TJ's with a CV conversion and 4" of lift run about 16". I know you aren't running 4" of lift so I really think you should take the time and measure after you get your other mods in place and then run down to your local DS guy..
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Old 10-24-2002, 10:54 AM
TObject TObject is offline
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I would recommend doing the motor lift (ether by replacing motor mounts with raised version, or placing shims under the motor mounts or both), at the same time with the body lift. That will give you three benefits:

a) You do not have to move the radiator and fan shroud if BL and motor mounts are done at the same time.
b) You get the better driveline angle.
c) You get the motor farther away from the rocks.

Make sure that you check the clearance between the fan and the plastic fan shroud after you done, anyways. Depending on the amount of motor lift, you may still have to move the shroud a little bit, so the fan doesn't touch it. It can be done, by slotting the shroud mounting holes.

I will also recommend getting acquainted with a local driveshaft shop. It is nice to have somebody nearby who understands your driveshaft needs when you need help. I personally have two rear driveshafts. When I damage one, I put the spare on, and take the damaged driveshaft for rebalancing/fixing.

You will need a new driveshaft only if you are modifying the transfer case with a Slip Yoke Elimination kit. If you are not doing SYE, I think, you do not need a new driveshaft, although I am not sure, it may depend on the length of your transmission. And, it may be cheaper to modify you existing driveshaft rather than buying a whole new one.

If you are not doing the SYE, do not point the pinion angle up. Keep it parallel to the transfer case output shaft.
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Old 10-24-2002, 05:47 PM
Jerry Bransford Jerry Bransford is offline
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After buying a Tom Wood CV driveshaft and having no problems with it or complaints about its quality, I'd probably do what Robert suggests and have one made locally if I needed another driveshaft. There's a lot to be said for building rapport with a local guy and not having to ship anything back and forth. Then again, it was real handy being able to just call Bayou Geep and Tom Wood and have everything delivered without me having to chase around town. I'll still, however, find a good local driveshaft shop for my next driveshaft... it's not exactly black-magic that Tom Wood builds his driveshafts with.
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  #6  
Old 10-25-2002, 08:33 AM
Robert J. Yates Robert J. Yates is offline
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Quote:
Originally posted by Jerry Bransford
it's not exactly black-magic that Tom Wood builds his driveshafts with.
According to my driveshaft guy, its also not always genuine Spicer parts either
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  #7  
Old 10-27-2002, 04:39 PM
truckjohn truckjohn is offline
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The other thing worth considering is getting a used XJ CV style front shaft from a bone yard and getting it re-tubed for your correct length and balanced by your friendly local DS shop.

Re-tubing the shaft runs in the $75.00 range.

The only thing that would stop me from doing that is if the slip-yoke was clearly worn out and wobbly or bent.

Just food for thought....

Best regards

John
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Old 10-27-2002, 05:02 PM
TJRON TJRON is offline
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Damn good idea John. Sounds like a plan for a spare shaft!
Thanks,
Ron
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  #9  
Old 10-28-2002, 07:29 AM
Wind_Danzer Wind_Danzer is offline
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Hmmmm... thanks John, that's a good idea too.

Couldn't I look for a TJ one as the front DS is a CV too???
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