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Technical Forum The main forum for jeep related discussions. Mechanically Inept... |
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#1
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Atlas 4spd rear drv shaft
Here a picture of the rear drive shaft lenght in a TJ with re 5.5 long arm and Rancho 9600 shocks, extended to shock stop. Nothing has been adjusted at this point. Binding is in the upper yoke.
Talk about shorty shaft! Looking into big mouth yoke ( U's wont like) but more likely a axel strap up. Got another project with a dana 60 in the front going to hi steer with howe ram set up. This is interesting. May work with anyone with 44's with sim hi steer capability. Will post those later |
#2
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Bummer about the shaft binding.
BTW: What rear diff is that? |
#3
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Probably the CV centering ball thats binding, be careful not to let it do that under power or you will damage it quickly.
The only real 'fix' would be a wheelbase stretch. You run a HP60 rear right? Do you have a motor mount lift? Will help a small bit. In the meantime, run a center limit strap to prevent binding. MP |
#4
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My swaybar is my rear droop limiter
try putting one back on the extension links supplied with the long arm kit and let it droop again and see how it is. do you have a pic with weight on the springs?
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01 TJ sport |
#5
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i have heard of using 13-10 yokes, and a 13-50 "H".
add in some 13-10/13-50 u joints, and you may just make it. as far as sourcing the combo u joints.. i have no idea where to find those. do you have a motor mount lift? how much lift do you have? |
#6
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Quote:
Maybe when Blaine gets back he can help us source the correct parts to play with this ourselves. I have a Spicer catalog, but it's VERY confusing. My droop is seriously limited because of CV bind and I have a fairly respectably long shaft and high pinion rear. I don't know how guys do it with low pinions. |
#7
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that makes sense. i know the 13-30 joints are fairly common.
i'm sure some of it can be corrected with a motor mount lift of up to 2". i dont know what mml he currently has, but i'd max it out with whatever custom lift he can get in there without hitting the trans on the firewall. |
#8
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I loaded up the angle of attack into Solid works. If strapping I'll loose about 4 to 6 inchs of travel. I'm not even using the travel of the 5.5 long arm because of the stroke of the internal shocks.
I'll gain some with a wider yoke but will wear out the U's on extension. Stretching the limo out will work but thats a little costly. Strapping up and changing yokes is the route I'll go. Heres some shots of the Hi Steer Ram mods. I blocked out noise. I looked closly at Eriks and Matts ram set up. What I wanted to end up with was having the ram on the axel. Only way to do that was to lift the steering up. What I lost in doing so was the cross over steering. To much stuff going through the middle. The track bar bracket was removed and and moved back about 6 inches. The axel was pushed forward about an inch. This left a nice hole to drop in the ram . Pitman arm is a shorty. Work isnt completed yet. Sway bar is another issue. I'm waiting for the Rok n Lok to be released so until then I'll be flopping in the breeze. |
#9
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Quote:
Both front and rear Dana 60 Hi pinion |
#10
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Erik, Matt
Thanks for the yoke info will look into them. |
#11
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Quote:
No pictures of that yet. Untill front steering is done cannot mod front drive shaft. No Sway bar in back yet, all was cut out for dana 60. Will add again later |
#12
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Just a few thoughts here...
Sell the Atlas and install the MUCH shorter Klune/D20 combo instead... Install a 9" rear with the HI9 3rd member for a higher pinion... Rebuild that driveshaft with the Woods offset 1310's...
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Have you ever imagined a world with no hypothetical situations? |
#13
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Drive shaft angle went from 26deg to 30deg at full drop to shock stop. Thats the 4 inch TC difference and drive shaft shortening.
Adjusted the pinion angle and now the yoke is clearing without binding. Later may go with the Tom Woods 42deg shaft..once I get a tow rig..... Matt you mentioned you have a clearance issue at drop, do you know what your drive shaft angle is when its all down? Anyone know whats to much? |
#14
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John, I looked into those offset joints, and from what I was told, you cant use them on a CV shaft.
Britain, I think I'm binding right around 30* and there is still several inches of shock travel left. I need to measure it at full droop and see what I really need. Like someone else mentioned, I too am using my swaybar as a limit strap re: those 42* shafts, those are only for low speed right? No more street driving? I think I found a souce for 1310/1330 CV parts to play with. If I ever get caught up at work I'm going to order the parts and see how much angle they will operate at. MP |
#15
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Yeah the 42's are not recomended for street. Next project tow vehicle. I'l prob get the thing on the tires this week I hope.
Go trash it for a year and see if I need to fancy up the rear. Still havent done a thing with the sway bars in the rear. May swing by again and look closer at your sways. |
#16
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All Righty front drive shaft should be done tomorrow. Waiting on some fittings for the oil cooler, raised the radiator for the shorty pit arm. I may find out late tomorrow how she does in the 1/4 mile.....should be sic
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#17
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4 on the floor
The heep is on its wheels. Tomorrow will run the 4 spd through some rocks. It is really sic.....
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#18
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Test Run
While intiall dry running evrything appeared to go good. The low in the transfer was sic. You could et out of the jeep go take leak and get back in before went a foot.
Didnt happent exactly that way in some rocks. Lost the electric shift ability and only had the 3:8:1. To hot to do anything today. Ran it over a stretch of boulders to check any binding in the rear its ok. Drive shaft for now not an issue. Ram assist steering performed great. Blocked the wheels off camber in some rocks . The steering pushed the jeep sideways. Staun install ok. Now need to finish some lights in the rear ...off to Stu's site. |
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