Installing Currie rear TJ bumpstops.

[-=Alien=-]

Which way does the top bumpstop/retainer mount? The directions show the "cylinder" mounted up over the hump on the frame. However, I've seen pics of them installed in jeeps and it looks like the cylinder is pointed down with the bumpstop inside it. Which is right?

[Jeff Weston]

The rubber bumpstops fit within the "cups" of the aluminum mounts.

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by -=Alien=-
Which way does the top bumpstop/retainer mount? The directions show the "cylinder" mounted up over the hump on the frame. However, I've seen pics of them installed in jeeps and it looks like the cylinder is pointed down with the bumpstop inside it. Which is right?

The correct way according to John Currie is to put the cup upwards and cover the original downward facing dimple in the spring perch. Then the urethane bump just sits on the flat surface that's on the bottom of the cup.

That will leave your spring retained on the top and have a small amount of freeplay to slide up and down.

It's pure coincidence that the urethane bump fits into the cup.

Cool, now I get to go reverse all of them I've ever installed.

[-=Alien=-]

Thanks.

Blaine, your jeep was one of the ones I looked at... that's why I was confused.

[Jeff Weston]

Originally posted by mrblaine
Cool, now I get to go reverse all of them I've ever installed.

Well, blow me down! (today is international talk like a pirate day afterall).

Since my upper stops are spaced down anyway, I'm gonna' leave them put.

[DC]

I don't want to hijack this thread, however, my newly installed upper rear passenger side Currie bumpstop came completely unscrewed last week, fell down, and somehow got completely outside of the rear Currie spring (i.e., both the spacer and poly bump are simply gone). I was wondered why I was sensing a bottoming-out issue until I finally discovered the problem and realized that my rear passenger side Bilstein shock was acting as the limiting factor (hence, the bottoming-out).

When I look at the single-page schematic that came with the Currie bumpstops (as well as Blaine's explanation), it looks like mine were installed correctly by my 4x4 shop (from the one that's still in place on the rear drivers side).

However, based on what happened with my set-up, I have some questions:

1) Has anyone else had (or seen) this happen?

2) Why did this likely happen? Is this just simply a case where the screw or bolt retaining the upper assembly was not sufficiently tightened for the spacer & poly bump assembly? Should thread-locker (or some other approach) be used in this application?

3) I went for the better part of an afternoon with the bottoming-out situation. Since that was likely my rear passenger Bilstein shock bottoming-out, is that likely toast now? How can I ascertain this for sure?

4) For some reason, the rear upper control arm bushing on my 4" Full Traction long arm suspension is trashed (where its forward end comes into the bracket on the crossmember/skid). The rubber shoulder of the large bushing is completely peeled away on the inboard side, and I've got metal-to-metal contact (with a gap on the outboard side). This was not in this condition before I lost the rear bump stop on the same side. Is it likely that losing the rear bump stop allowed for more compressive travel that did in the associated upper control arm bushing (even though the bottoming-out of my shock should have been limiting that effect)? Or is there any reason to even think that there was a cause and effect situation going on here?

If anyone's got any ideas or comments here, I'd sure appreciate hearing them.

Thanks,
Don