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Technical Forum The main forum for jeep related discussions. Mechanically Inept... |
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#1
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Another swaybar question.
Looking for some pointers on fitting anti-roc/sway-loc on my YJ.
After changing the rear suspension to 4-link/coil-over I?ve noticed excessive rear body roll that gets a little scary on the sidehills. Ex: Rocker Knocker almost got the best of me. I think that if I had a rear sway bar the front right would get pushed down and level things out. Maybe? Right now I run the factory front sway bar connected when I drive around town. I'm happy with the road handling with the front connected. On the trails I disconnect the front sway bar. This used to work great when I was leaf sprung (SUA) in the rear, but now that I'm linked in the rear the (lack of) side hill stability gets kind of scary. My questions... #1 - What anti-rock would be recommended for the rear? I've read ChrisL's write-up and plan to mount mine in a similar fashion. Do they come in different spring rates or widths? #2 - The front. YJ's have a front cross-member tube similar to TJ's, can I use an anti-rock or sway-loc fitted like a TJ? I'm thinking that a front Anti-Rock could be setup to perform well on road OR off-road but not both without changing the link positions before hitting the trails. This has me thinking that a sway loc front and anti-roc rear will be the ticket for me. Any ideas if/how a sway-loc will fit on a YJ? Thanks in advance! Matt
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#2
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I can't answer all your questions, but it's very obvious that your rear suspension is doing all the work. You definately need a front Antirock if possible. I have a wheeling buddy set up very much like you. He ended up with more travel in the rear and the Antirock definately gave his rig exceptional manners. He eventually had to switch to a front spring pack that was flatter and allowed more travel up front. This equalled out the suspension a bit more and his rig now outperforms mine at times on off camber situations. He runs the stock swaybar in the rear.
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#3
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As long as I keep my front end down the suspension balances nicely front to rear:
Its when the front gets up high (steep climbs) and the weight tranfers to the rear that things seem unbalanced. The front has no weight on it so the suspension kinda rests at neutral (does not unload much which is a nice thing about leafs). The downhill rear side is probably seeing 75% of the vehicle weight and the springs just cant support that much, so they fully compress.
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The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common |
#4
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Quote:
P.S. Is there weight on the driver's front in the first pic? The first time I ran Rocker Knocker; one of the guys ahead of me climbed it more to the right. I did the same with a 3" Teraflex short arm lift and it worked really well. I actually spun the Jeep to the left and climbed up onto the ledge with all 4 tires way before encountering the "Rocker Knocker" boulder you are laid against.
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#5
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Matt....you are running SOA up front, correct?
Edit: Matt, PM me your mailing address. The Moab DVDs are ready to ship. |
#6
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Spring rate... I'm running dual rate springs (two springs per coilover) with the dual rate lockout set about 2" into compression travel. The combined rate is perfect, excellent ride. I just wish that when I get into the single, higher rate spring I had a stiffer spring rate. I wish I new more about setting up dual rate coilovers, I "think" I can get a softer lower spring and a stiffer upper spring so my dual rate remains the same, but once I get into the single rate I'm on a stiffer spring. Definately need to look into that some more. Quote:
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The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common |
#7
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Matt;
I'd give these guys a jingle or contact them at Pirate. These guys have the spring rates dialed in pretty close and it would help if you could give them a weight for the rear, trail ready. www.polyperformance.com The part that sux is once you get the spring rate where you want it; you may end up at a different ride height. I think you'll find that valving plays a bigger role than you believe whether at slow or fast speeds. Ever been off camber with a set of OME shocks?
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#8
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Ryan at Polyperformance helped me set up my current springs when I built the 4-link. Those guys are awesome with springs... His original guess was 375 over 350 for a combined rate of 181 which I have been very happy with.
I just talked to Ryan again and he agrees that a rear sway bar will help me out alot and is what I should try first. If that does not fix the problem he suggested switching springs to 500 over 300 which will give me a combined rate of 187.5. Very close to what I have now so the ride and height should remain the same... untill I get into the 500lb spring. Then it would get noticeably stiffer. So, anyone have any sugestions on swaybars?
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The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common |
#9
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Quote:
Get the universal kit and start from there. He had gone to a fuel cell inside the tub so he had all kinds of room to work with. Another thing that comes to mind is that we originally started with a stock TJ rear bar but he kept tweaking it and snapping the links - leverage was not kind to the stocker. The anti-rock has served him much better. |
#10
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Matt--
I would also go with the universal rear kit from currie. It is fairly easy to set up. Also for a more custom setup to build yourself, you can check out speedway industries www.1speedway.com . They sell all the custom parts to build your own. |
#11
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Robert and Chris, thanks for the tips
I see on Curries site that you can get different widths, but only one spring rate. I guess the position on the arm gives plenty of adjustment. Looks like the best spot for the rear bar to mount would be pierced straight through the frame behind where the shackle hanger used to go: This gets it behind the tank and should allow plenty room for the arms to move. The frame width is 42.5" and the widest sway bar is 44.5" so it will be a tight squeeze. I'm concerned that the arm will get pinched between the tire and the frame when flexed as the tire moves in and almost touches the frame. I think I can get the arm mounted low enough that it will stay under the frame.. I'll have to play with it. Sounds like the front will be easy. YJ's front crossmember tube is the same width as TJ's, but slightly smaller ID. I spoke with Currie and they said to buy the TJ front kit and just machine the Delrin bushings down. Sounds easy enough
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The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common |
#12
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Quote:
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#13
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Did I mention to move that spare? That things sticks way out there.
I see someone else likes Schaeffer lube products.
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#14
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Quote:
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Have you ever imagined a world with no hypothetical situations? |
#15
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Quote:
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#16
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Quote:
The gas can/spare tire rack comes off by pulling two bolts. My plan was to pull the rack and put the spare in the back for appropriate trails. But... I always wind up filling the back with tools,spares,coolers etc and never have room for the spare. The spare will definately be in the back for this falls JV rokie run
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The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common |
#17
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Quote:
I mounted an 8" tall Tuffy drawer/box that takes up a good share of my tub. This holds my spares, strap, first aid, etc.... I welded 1/4" plate supports to the top of the box and centered a threaded bung. My 37" spare sits on top of the box and a "T" handle is used to hold it down. I still have plenty of room for other things behind the seats, on the sides of the Tuffy box and on the passenger floor. I plan on building a rack over the spare for miscellaneous lightweight items. All this and my view out the rear still won't be hindered.
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Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#18
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Finally got back on the swaybar project. Ordered front and rear antirocks from DC4WD and received the rear yesterday.
TJ's must route the fuel filler/vent lines different than the YJ's, I could not make the AR fit like ChrisL did without re-routing my filler lines. After looking at all of my mounting options (and a few consultations with Blaine ) I decide to run it through the frame, just behind the fuel tank. Rather than use the entire length sleave that Currie provides I cut two sleaves about 3" long to just go through the frame: The AR bar is about 44.5" long, my frame is 43" wide, this only leaves 3/4" of splined shaft per side to attach the 1" wide arms to. I ground the welds down to keep my width as narrow as possible: The bar goes just in front of and above the rear crossmember that supports the rear of the tank: One problem with the AR located behind the tank is that the long 20" arms don't quite reach the axle cl. I wasnt real happy with having the axle link tab stick back like this, but it should work: I was concerned that my link length would be too short and I might invert the link while flexed. The links wound up being ~9" long so I think it won't be a problem. Thats it for now, I'll finish the other side tomorrow and see how it drives/flexes. Next week I should get the front, it will be interesting to see how a SOA front works with the AR Matt
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The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common |
#19
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interesting, let us know your findings on the final set up
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CJ7, TJ |
#20
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Heres a flex shot before the rear antirock:
And heres after the rear antirock install: Sure killed my flex huh If you look close you can see that my left front tire is actually stuffed further with the antirock. Just the effect I was looking for I finished the front antirock install Thursday but have not had a chance to ramp it yet. It will be interesting to see what happens
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The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common |
#21
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Looks good Matt. Nice improvements to an already nice rig.
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#22
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Ya what Stu said, you should have alot more control out among the rocks. Looks great.
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#23
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I know this is an old thread, but I was hoping to use the pics of before and after sway bar install to prove a point on another forum.
Do you happen to have them? thanks, chris |
#24
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Chris, what are you trying to prove?
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#25
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Just that in some instances a sway bar (or bars) will HELP flex, not hinder it.
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#26
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Almost all of my photo links got lost in a server swap.
I'll check if I can find some backups...
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The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common |
Bookmarks |
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