Hub kit problem & a question

[ChrisK]

I finally started working on my hub conversion install. Everything went well until I started tightening the spindle nuts. I got the first one down to 50ft/lbs and noticed something strange looking in the bearing. It was some sort of circular ring floating in the grease. I removed the spindle nut and pulled the bearing. Here is what I found:



It is a circular spring. I think it goes in the outer cage and is supposed to keep the cage off the rollers. Guess this bearing is no good. I grabbed the one from the other side and finished the side. I also have a bad seal. It has a small lump in the metal rim right next to the center where the rubber starts. I figure I can get a new bearing but do most auto parts carry seals?

Now the question. Can I run with just one hub installed if the seal has to be ordered? If so, locked or unlocked or does it matter. I have a Truetrac LSD in front if that matters.

Thanks,
Chris

BTW - My instructions for the spindle nuts say to tighten the inner nut to 50ft/lbs, then loosen 180 degrees. Then retighten to 3-5ft/lbs. Then install the locknut and outer nut. Torque to 125-150ft/lbs.
This sounds different from what everyone else says they say to do and sounds like what Blaine said we should do.

[TJRON]

That appears to be the spring out of the grease seal. The trick to keep that seal in one piece is to hold the outer bearing in the wheel hub as you place it on the axle, being carefull to line it up. If the seal is ruined the part number is Chicago Rawhide 22353.
I don't see why you can't run on one hub.
Hopefully Blaine can add to this.
Oh yeah, your the first one to screw up that seal.
Ron

[ChrisK]

OK, so that spring is supposed to be in the seal. I started to put that particular seal in the hub when i noticed the lump. I was able to pull it out by hand, but the spring must have fallen down in to the bearing. After I pulled the seal out, I realized that I had the wrong bearing on the inner side.

So the bearing is probably OK then. Do most auto parts stores carry the seals?

Chris

[ChrisK]

Originally posted by TJRON
Oh yeah, your the first one to screw up that seal.

THANKS!

[TJRON]

I got a couple at the local NAPA but I had to wait a day. That grease seal really doesn't do much. It helps to hold the grease from making a mess but isn't critical for the short term. I think you could run it without the spring until you get a new seal.
I wouldn't think the bearing was harmed.

[ChrisK]

Thanks for the info. I'll check with NAPA.

[mrblaine]

Chris, it's highly important to run the CR seals. To date, all other brands that I have tried have a double lip seal. It is almost impossible to keep that seal out of trouble when installing it. Almost always ruins itself. The CR seal is a single lip seal that is much easier to get installed correctly.

Yes, that does look like the spring from the back side of the seal.

An installation hint that may save you a few seals. Put the rotor and hub assembly onto the spindle, but don't push it all the way back. Take your unpacked outer wheel bearing and start it onto the spindle snout. Grab the rotor hat with your fingers and use your thumbs to push the bearing into it's race in the hub. Basically you are using the outer bearing to line everything up and then move the whole thing back into place. I have never had this method cock a bearing or ruin a seal. Continue to hold everything pushed together and slightly rotate the whole mess.

I think you are asking if you can run with one side only converted and the stock unit bearings on the other. I don't see why not for a short period of time. It would be no different than a trail fix to get you home.

[ChrisK]

Thanks for the install tips Blaine. I'll definately look for the CR seals only. I was planning on wheeling this weekend so hopefully I'll be able to find one without having to order it.

Chris