welding to cast?

[-=Alien=-]

What is the best way to weld to the diff on a D30? I'm looking to add a truss to help with housing flex.

Is there a better way to support/beef up this housing? I've heard of sleeving the tube... what's that all about? I'm open for any suggestions based on your experience. TIA!

[Jeff Weston]

Originally posted by -=Alien=-
What is the best way to weld to the diff on a D30? I'm looking to add a truss to help with housing flex.

Is there a better way to support/beef up this housing? I've heard of sleeving the tube... what's that all about? I'm open for any suggestions based on your experience. TIA!

Per Blaine's suggestion, my dad had his D30 sleeved after having it straightened. The 4X Doctor did the work, basically cutting a tube in half along its length and welding it back on. In addition to welding the seem, he put a bunch of bullet welds along its length. This is on a Warn XCL lift which is quite hard on the housing due to the rigid radius arms and it has held up fine.

[-=Alien=-]

Does this help with housing flex? What I'm refering to is the flex that allows the preload to change, thus affecting an ARB. I can certainly see how it'll help against bending the tube! What thickness tubing did he use for the sleeve? Do you remember what the OD of a stock D30 tube is? If not, I can go measure.....

[Jeff Weston]

I don't recall the size of the tube or sleeve. As for what effect it has on the ARB preload, I have no idea. Neither my brother's, dad's nor my Jeep have ever had a problem with the ARB's (knocking on wood).

[Joe Dillard]

I had my 8.8 axle tubes welded to the cast iron diff by a pro here in San Diego.

It was first completely stripped of ALL components, paint, oils, seals, etc.

The axle was placed in an oven and heated to ~600*F.

Once removed the welding immediately commenced.

It was welded with a TIG and the rod used was a mixture of silicone bronze.

Then it was allowed to slowly cool.

Here's a few pics of it and also a link to Lincolns site that has some info.





http://www.lincolnelectric.com/knowl...ronpreheat.asp

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by -=Alien=-
What is the best way to weld to the diff on a D30? I'm looking to add a truss to help with housing flex.

Is there a better way to support/beef up this housing? I've heard of sleeving the tube... what's that all about? I'm open for any suggestions based on your experience. TIA!

For what you are trying to accomplish, it's a bit too much effort with the 30 center section. Housing flex, based on as much info as I can gather is inherent to the size and wall thickness of the iron in the centersection. To alleviate that, it would have to be trussed all directions like they do with the 9" housings for desert race trucks.

A lot of work for limited benefit when it's only on the odd occasion that the flex allows preload to be an issue and take out the locker case bolts.

Were it me, I'd just get a competent gear guy to make sure the preload is dialed in correctly and be done with it.

OTOH, if I were trying to run a front 4 link and put an upper arm on the passenger side, I'd sleeve the long tube and weld it to the housing with a mig and call it good.

[-=Alien=-]

I've had the bolts back out of my locker before. I've since had it installed in this HP 30, and just wanted to make sure it didn't happen again. So far, so good. I guess I'll just keep an eye on the bolts when doing fluid changes. Thanks for the info...

[Allen]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Joe Dillard
[B]I had my 8.8 axle tubes welded to the cast iron diff by a pro here in San Diego.






Beautiful work.

Allen