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#1
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replacing radiator ... any advise?
Hello all,
finally got the engine running right (a new to me 2002 TJ 4.0 with about 45k miles on it, which replaced my blown engine) and ran a bunch of trails last weekend, but finally the radiator on the TJ started to leak a little on the top part of it (along the seams). I was wondering which places y'all have experiences with as far as replacing it. I see the 3 row and 2 row replacements and looking at the one from radiator barn (2 row metal) it seems that would do the job. Maybe even getting one with the auto tranny cooler and just hooking up the steering fluid reservoir to it? Any input is appreciated
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CJ7, TJ |
#2
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if it were me i would go with the two core. (or one if i could get some feed back on them) because, when you go blasting through muddy water pine and fir needles get lodged between the cores and that makes cooling even more of a challange. i have had to pull my radiator out a few times just to get it clean. mpitha..
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#3
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I would get a stock radiator. For the vast majority of us they cool very well (better then many aftermarked designs) they fit - and you can replace them on the lake bed in about 20 minutes...
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#4
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I would definitely NOT put the stock plastic contraption back in mine. When mine blew, I went with a all metal one from radiators.com (I think). Great price and I feel it's a much better animal. I noted no temp differences.
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"Bump it" |
#5
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thanks for the replies so far. And I'm not considering a OEM radiator at this point, even though it has held up well, but the plastic design and 'so so' seams and connections on it don't look too promising.
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#7
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The whole thing is a crap shoot....my stock aluminum radiator started to give me trouble (multiple seam leaks) at 40k and I eventually put in a 3 core copper from Radiators.com. The big issue is cooling ability and the new 3 row while all copper did not cool my Jeep any better than the stocker. The only real difference was that the new one didn't leak, even after another 40k which some (including myself) perceive as a benefit.
As I understand it, copper has better conductivity over aluminum but with aluminum, you can get bigger tubes in the same amount of space. As I said, its a crap shoot.....I have spent a wad of money trying to nail down a running hot problem on my rig and even with a $500 Novak aluminum radiator and an oil cooler, I still have issues. If your rig is not running hot, I would go with the 2 row copper over the stock POS. I think the 3 row is to thick and actually inhibits cooling but I have no proof. You can get a 2 row cheap and delivered to your door in a day or 2. www.radiators.com |
#8
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seems like i remember several people switching back to the 2 row after installing the 3 row for heating issues.
this is something i am also going to have to take care of as my 97 is still sporting the original stock radiator. robert, i was wondering how that new radiator was working for you. i am kind of bummed that it didnt fully cure your problems. i have never had cooling issues unless the ratiator was blocked by debris so i am actually considering a stock replacement. i think the leaky tanks are part of its charm. mine leaks only on two or three days a year and only enough to fill the ridge at the top crimp. it doesnt seem to matter the outside temp or activity. frickin' gremlins! |
#9
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Quote:
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#10
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Quote:
will stu's aluminum repair kit work on your radiator? |
#11
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I have one of those POS 3 row all metal radiators from one of the popular online places in Kat's rig. It's leaking at several of the soldered connections including the filler necks.
I just bought a new OEM 1 row that will do quite nicely as well as allow her to run the AC on hot days which she could never do with the 3 row all metal aftermarket POS. Ron, if you want, I can yank her 3 row all metal out and ship it to you at your expense. Only cost you shipping. I'm sticking with OEM. They may have their o-ring issues now and then, but so did the space shuttle. Besides, even if they seep at the tank connection, it quits as soon as the coolant warms up.
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I am Savvy. |
#12
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I'll be darned, the OE radiator is a single row. I did not know that, I had always assumed it was a 2 row!
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#13
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Quote:
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I am Savvy. |
#14
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Why in the heck does it seem that all the composite radiators in almost every car built today hold up okay, but for some reason, the Jeep Wrangler's ...
Is it a Jeep thing that I don't understand?
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Jeff |
#15
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It's not just the Wrangler. My zj's radiator went out after 50K with a crack in the pastic side rail.
I think it's all the flexing and bumping that we put our jeeps through. It just wears the radiators out. |
#16
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I don't want a 3row after reading all the horror stories about those doing exactly the opposite of what they're supposed to do -> cool less than the 1row or 2row ... Right now I'm leaning towards the radiatorbarn 2 row |
#17
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I got the 3 row as a gift (wife thought she was doing a good thing and "upgrading" after I told her what to get) and although it works on the trail just fine, it did run hot on the road with the AC on. Never did that with the OEM unit, never.
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98 TJ.... capable. |
#18
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just ordered a 2row copper/plastic one through rockauto.com
We'll see how it does
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CJ7, TJ |
#19
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Quote:
A couple of years ago I broke a motor mount and with the flexing the fan ate the stock rad. I have a 4.0 but with a CJ front clip which means I have a CJ style rad. I got the 3 row radiator as it was superior...I know this to be true because I read it a couple of times on the internet The 3 row caused me clearance problems with the stock fan...so I went with an electric one. I haven't had any heating issues with the 3 row...in fact in regular driving I hardly ever use the fan...unless it is in stop and go traffic and the temps are in the mid to high 80's. The 3 row hasn't stood up well and has been repaired a number of times. I plan on replacing it with something other than a 3 row.
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Ian McCutchon 08 JKU Rubicon 98 TJ |
#20
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so did you get any snow worth mentioning Ian?
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CJ7, TJ |
#21
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Quote:
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Ian McCutchon 08 JKU Rubicon 98 TJ |
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