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  #1  
Old 07-10-2001, 08:23 PM
Ace! Ace! is offline
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Belly-Ups

Can someone give me the ins and outs of these. My t-case is much too low, so it's on the mod list. I'd need a body lift, motor mount lift, etc.?????

Thanks.

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  #2  
Old 07-10-2001, 08:59 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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The belly-up is a not a to be taken lightly mod. It involves many aspects of your jeep including but not limited to the following: Exhaust, tub, t-case shifter linkage, motor mounts, upper and lower rear control arms, t-case, and a whole bunch of tinkering with stuff to dial it in.

Don't even consider this as an intermediate mod. Do the other things first. Get control arms, SYE, motor mount lift, and body lift. Then tackle the BU. You will still have your hands full just adjusting everything from there.

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  #3  
Old 07-11-2001, 07:09 AM
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Teraflex Belly Up

Pros: Adds insane amount of break over clearance.
Cons: Bends up easily.
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  #4  
Old 07-11-2001, 07:29 AM
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Thanks Blaine,

This is the type of info I'm looking for. I am hoping to figure out what it takes and then start doing some real research on them, as I've heard Tera's is thin, and I don't know much about others. I really need additional skid plate protection (i.e., oil pan) and would at the same time like to get the transfer skid raised and a raised gas tank. I installed a Tera gas tank skid but it was a huge pita due to the stock one being severely battered, so much so I probably lost a couple gallons of gas capacity.

I have a SYE (waiting to be installed when I get adj control arms), and will have one set of control arms by the end of this month and the next by the end of August (based on finding a good/great price). The motor mount and body lift would be $100 - $200, right? One of the things I then run into is if I do a body lift I'll have room for 35" tires, and I know I'll be wondering if I should do 35s or 33s.

I look forward to any additional info (even if it's stuff about how difficult it is).

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Old 07-11-2001, 08:05 AM
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Thanks TO, can you tell me more about the install, what it required?

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  #6  
Old 07-11-2001, 08:34 AM
Robert J. Yates Robert J. Yates is offline
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Sergy's Belly-up would not be typical as he has a high pinion rear diff. Basically what you will be dealing with are the issues Blaine laid out for you in his reply. Maybe all of them, maybe some of them, maybe none of them - it frankly depends on what lift and other equipment you already have on your Jeep. Take Blaine seriously when he says that you will have to spend some time and possibly some money dialing it in. I ended up with a new catback exhaust for exactly that reason. The actual install is easy enough, its figuring out all the other subsystems and getting them to all work togehter again that takes the time.

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  #7  
Old 07-11-2001, 08:50 AM
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Since I have a high pinion rear axle the only two extra things that Belly Up install required in my case were replacement of the transfer case shifter bracket with a unit Mr. Blaine fabricated, and fixing the driveline angles by razing the motor with custom shims and adjusting the rear control arms length.
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  #8  
Old 07-11-2001, 09:24 AM
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Hmmm, maybe I should list what I've got (it's not much), then I can sort of figure out what to get as I continue to acquire parts. If there are things that I am going to get anyway I might as well make sure in the long run they'll work with this mod.

I've got:

ProComp 4" Springs

AA SYE and Tom Wood CV Drive Shaft

RE Adjustable Control Arms (I'll have one pair in the next couple weeks and another by the end of August). If anyone knows where to get these at the lowest price (Bob Supplee doesn't seem to like selling RE as much as other stuff) PLEASE let me know as my budget is TIGHT (and don’t say 1800PIMP4PARTS )

Thanks all.

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  #9  
Old 07-11-2001, 09:34 AM
Robert J. Yates Robert J. Yates is offline
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You will need both upper and lower adj. arms in the rear to accomodate a Belly-up.

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  #10  
Old 07-11-2001, 12:34 PM
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How much would it raise the t-case skid, as it looks like the stock skid is close to two inches below the frame? Who makes Belly Ups, and who's got the best, are they almost all the same?

Thanks for putting up with all the questions on this, I don't really know anything about them.

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  #11  
Old 07-11-2001, 05:36 PM
Wumpy Wumpy is offline
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Ace, it's a pretty involved mod. I've been dwelling on it hard for a couple of months. With Metcalf gone, there are few options available. Based upon your list, I'd say you need ADJ upper control arms, F+R, and at least lowers for the rear. Look at longer brake lines, shocks, etc to go with your lift. I'm figuring that I'd have to spend about... 2 k to get one done, considering I already have a SYE and a MM and BL in hand. It depends upon how much you want to spend on what. It sounds like you have most of your ducks in a row though.. but as the others here have said, don't take it lightly.

I'm really eager to go flat, it will likely, money wise (advent of the new house) be the last set of mods for a long time (at least 2 years), with the exception of replacing tires. But I'm carefully considering what needs to be done with it to see if I can "truely" afford it.

You could by pass going flat, and saving a skid (say 350 ish) and front upper control arms 170, muffler, 150ish, and linkage brakette, 50.. MM, 100, BL 100.. and put that towards a winch or lockers or who knows.. I'm not trying to talk you out of it, because, it seems to be a pretty decent mod as far as capabilities go, and it has a certain appeal to me... I mean the clearance is enought to.. well.. give up beer for!

(talk to Papromike about RE stuff, he seems to be the best price)


I'm very frugal on what I buy, (yeah, ok I'm cheap) but as a tip to you, and take this as something from my heart to you.. Don't buy it because it's cheap, or a good price considering the others... Buy it because #1, it's what you want, #2, it's durable for your use, #3, it fits into the master plan. And also, figure the long term.

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  #12  
Old 07-11-2001, 06:38 PM
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Thanks for the tip William. I'm not compromising quality over price, that's for sure. I'm buying RE control arms because that's what I want, I'm just looking for the best price on what I consider quality. The RE arms are coming about one pair a month. And I'm not looking to do this right away either, just trying to get my ducks in a row.

I didn't list them, but I've got the longer brake lines. I figure I need (based on Blaine's list):
BL/MM
exhaust
t-case linkage
and the skid of course

I've got True Tracs front and rear now, and will be doing a Super35 kit at some point, so that will give me a full Detroit in the rear when I do (next Spring more than likely). Then, on to the Rubicon (it's been postponed once already, so I'm going next year for sure!).

BTW, my Jeep has become my project vehicle, it's no longer a daily driver (wife got a car from her work) ! !
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  #13  
Old 07-11-2001, 09:57 PM
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ace hardware i just got off the phone with blaine from ceder city utah and he sais that the currie belly up is by far the best he has seen
also we talled up just the price of 35" tires and the disk brakes that you will need to stop them and this is the disk brakes thet he has been working hard on amd they work like they should
just tires and brakes a little over 2200.00 dollars so the pimp says JUST SAY NO TO THE HAMMERS
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  #14  
Old 07-12-2001, 07:58 AM
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Wow, pampers, I appreciate the info. Based on all that I guess I'll just get out of Jeeping it's obviously too much for m3! I was just looking for a few details, now it's going to cost me $2000 just for brakes and tires! Maybe they're cheaper through 1800PIMP4PARTS

Since Blaine isn't working on a Dana 35 brake kit I was considering the Stainless Steel kit, or the Currie (Explorer) kit, but then again there are lots of people with drums running 35s, so maybe it's something I'll wait on anyway.

I'm talking to Currie a bit about what it takes for the raised skid (Tera's and theirs), so we'll see what they say. I'm not looking to do this for a while anyway though.

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  #15  
Old 07-12-2001, 10:45 AM
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I've gotten a couple of e-mails from Currie saying their raised skid will only work with hp axles front and rear, that it WILL NOT WORK with a standard axle in the front or rear, so I guess that's not an option for me. Oh well. They also said their skid is built much stronger than Tera, but recommend Tera as it's the only one they sell that works without hp axles.

Who here has a raised skid, and who's is it? It seems Tera's is the ONLY option available right now.

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  #16  
Old 07-12-2001, 11:58 AM
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i think the tera is just fine for most wheeling and if it was not i dont think currie would offer it
i also do not see the bid deal about 35" tires at least were i trailed with others that have them
i got over the same rocks with my 33" with no problems and hit nothing under my jeep with my 3" lift
after seeing all the money it takes to do it right i will pass
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  #17  
Old 07-12-2001, 12:05 PM
TObject TObject is offline
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Well, there also Skyjacker transfer skid, but I don’t know anyone who has it.
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  #18  
Old 07-15-2001, 03:53 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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Ace- there you guys go again. You absolutely cannot listen to anything you hear and only believe half of what you see.

I currently have as a direct bolt-in on Kat's jeep, a Currie belly-up with a standard rotation rearend and a hp front. It will work with a low pinion front.

The only difficult thing is the trans mount and if I send you a pic of hers or post it here, it is self explanatory.

After having installed both, I consider the Currie piece to be easier to install and superior in strength and design.

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  #19  
Old 07-15-2001, 04:17 PM
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There we go again?

I'm not sure what you mean by there we go again. I ask a lot of questions, about a lot of things, but it doesn't mean I hold anything said as gospel. It depends on the source. I don't buy much for my Jeep, except what I want, based on what I need to do the type of trail I want to do. I don't see much reason to buy things except that.

Since I wanted to know about the Currie plate I asked Currie. They said it only worked with high pinion axles. I said that I may put in a high pinion D30, but wouldn't be swapping out the rear for a high pinion, and is it still not an option. Their response was I would HAVE TO HAVE (no ifs, ands, buts) high pinion axles front and rear to run the Currie skid plate, and based on my set up (what I'll be running at the time) recommended the Tera skid that they sell. They said it was lighter duty than theirs, but plenty strong enough. Per Currie, "Our Currie plate will only work with high pinion front and rear axles." If there are people doing it differently (as you are), then Currie ought to know, because IF I ever do a flat skid I want the strongest/highest quality. Currie will lose a sale (of their skid) if they tell me up front it won't work with my set up. But there I go again...

BTW, I hope you had a nice time in Utah

[This message was edited by Ace! on July 15, 2001 at 05:32 PM.]
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  #20  
Old 07-15-2001, 06:28 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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What I meant by "there you go again" was that I had already posted that I had put a Currie plate on Kat's rig. I am fairly certain that this knowledge was derived from my posts. I know of no other Currie plates being used as belly-ups in typical applications.

If I had had issues with the plate and it's install, I would definately let my friends here know. I may not have put it anywhere else, but it surely would have been here.

Currie has no intention of marketing their plate as an alternate to the Tera piece. It is only my relationship with John that allowed me to acquire one. You have to take into account that you are in a special place here, and with little exception, no-one here will steer you wrong, defend their purchases by saying that what they have is the best, or attempt to belittle, berate, or brag, as is the case in most other places.

I was also referring to the triumvirate of the JU mentality. You know, the Optima, HIlift, and K&N crowd.

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  #21  
Old 07-15-2001, 08:35 PM
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I'm no longer a "member" of JU (haven't even tried my old login/password to see if Chris really deleted it from the database). I'd much rather get info from a few people I know are talking about stuff they know.

I was looking at Currie's site and remembered you had listed a "custom" Currie belly up as a mod to Kat's Jeep. Currie has both the Tera and a Currie "belly-up" listed on their site. So I asked about their skid and posted based here on the info Currie gave me. You weren't here at the time, and hadn't said before (that I ever saw) that the plate was a direct bolt-in. As I only know of Currie and Tera as mfg of belly-ups, and read you thought the Currie was better that's what I was interested in (that's the part where I took your opinion as 'good enough for me'). However, Currie says they don't make a skid that I can use without replacing both axles with hp versions.

So, why don't you tell me more about what makes it "custom", or what you had to do to make it work? You listed things that need to be taken into account (bl/mm/exhaust/etc.). How did you address each (I know you moved the body mounts and installed a mm lift and custom exhaust).

Or, do you have a "custom" one that is bolt-in, based on the mods to Kat's Jeep, that I will never be able to purchase because it's custom made only for you

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  #22  
Old 07-16-2001, 07:09 AM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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My mistake Ace- I listed it as custom and it is only because it is in a non-standard application.

It is a direct bolt-in as far as the skid goes. The skid itself was not modified in any manner. Think about it. Changing out the axle modifies the frame nary a whit. If you don't change the frame, the skid stays un-modified. The skid is interchangeable with the Tera unit as far as bolting up the skid goes. The only tinkering is with the trans mount.

The trans mount comes with no instructions and neither does the skid. They do not market these for general applications.

All other problems and changes are relative to installing any belly-up.

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  #23  
Old 07-16-2001, 07:21 AM
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Thanks Blaine. Well, I guess down the road it'll be THE one to consider (as it seems it's more stout than the Tera skid).

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Old 07-16-2001, 10:04 PM
Hellbender Hellbender is offline
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"I was also referring to the triumvirate of the JU mentality. You know, the Optima, HIlift, and K&N crowd"
----------------------------------------------
I've got 2 Optimas AND a Hi-Lift!

But I'm weird, I really use them! And my Hi-Lift has saved me a 20 mile walk more than once, but I live in the JUNGLE (not the desert) and wheel alone 90% of the time, so I have to be self-sufficient.

But the K&N IS a waste of $$$, I have proven it so, at least on my rig.

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  #25  
Old 07-17-2001, 05:40 AM
William William is offline
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Catapillar batteries: better than an optima in many respects, much more durable (beat 'em to death)..

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  #26  
Old 07-17-2001, 07:53 AM
TObject TObject is offline
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Actually I am thinking about a two-battery setup, but not for the reason most of jeepers get two batteries.

On one of the recent trips one of the CJ’s in the group blew up (literally, with pieces flying) his battery at the farthest point of the “Pirates Of the Caribbean” trail in Los Coyotes. Had I a two-battery setup, I would have just loaned one of my batteries to the fellow.
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  #27  
Old 07-17-2001, 09:23 AM
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Actually TO, I've considered the exact same thing, but kind of for a different reason. I was going to put my old one "away", tucked away somewhere in the engine compartment. If I was ever in the middle of no where, by my self, and drained my battery, I'd have a back up. The only down side of the automatic.. no push starting..

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  #28  
Old 07-17-2001, 10:10 AM
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The only downside...

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  #29  
Old 07-21-2001, 10:38 PM
mrblaine mrblaine is offline
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William- Hellbender knows the color of the wire that locks up the torque converter. He also knows whether to apply power or ground to it. Whip out a few flashlight batteries, lock up the converter and push start away.

I am actually curious if I could make this work.

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  #30  
Old 07-22-2001, 03:00 PM
Wumpy Wumpy is offline
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I'm curious too, this would be a lot easier for me, and a good way to reduce wait!

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