Driveline help

[Jason L Williams]

This is probably belongs in the driveline 101 category but I?m going to ask for help anyway from the experienced masses. Last night, I was moving along with the 8.8 install. Needed new rotors and brake pads. No one would turn them. So, with teh brakes out of the way, on to the driveline. Changed the rear drive shaft u-joint and installed it to the yoke flange.
At first glance, the drive shaft angle would probably make people on this board groan. It's fine on the Pinion. It's at the transfer case side I think I have a problem. This new angle would probably explain why the drive shaft doesn?t turn more than a quarter of a turn. It appears to bind on the yoke ears. I think, and this is where I ask for opinions, that because the Jeep is supported on jack stands by the frame, the springs/axle are just hanging there at full droop. The rear shackles are still pushed forward as I haven?t tightened them down yet. I think that if I put the wheels on, lower the Jeep, the springs should settle out at ride height. That should push the axle side of the drive shaft up and correct the angle/binding.
Am I going in the right direction here? Is this the part of the ride where I need to look at other drive shaft options? Transfer case drop seems it might help but that's is out of the question.
Thanks.

(oops. sorry I believe this belongs in the mechanically inept section. please move in needed)

[Joe Dillard]

Yep, I believe you're going in the right direction.

I don't recall if you have a SYE installed or not - also if a taller lift has been installed yet.

Back at cha'.

[Jason L Williams]

We'll see tonight Joe. I hope this will work. No, I do not have a SYE yet. Soon. I was hoping not this soon. Yes, I did go with a new lift at this time. Soon to be sporting a 3 1/2" BDS lift.

[John]

You're dead on Jason. Put it back on the ground and see where you're at.

[Jeff Weston]

Whether it's okay or not while on all fours is immaterial AFAIC. It'll be no fun if you're highcentered on a rock on your belly pan, the rear axle droops and you blow your driveline up. I'd pony up for the SYE and do it right.

[Jason L Williams]

Jeff,
That means I have to have the spring perches rewelded so the pinion points at the t/c. That doesn't sound fun. Not after all the bumps and bruises I got from the axle the first time.

[Stu Olson]

Jeff is correct.

At a minimum, with all of your hardware attached, wheels on, etc., support the frame on jackstands and let the axle go to its full droop. If the drive shaft binds when you spin the tires, you can bet for sure you will blow it out on the trail....that is a no brainer check.

If you can't do it right, then at least put limiting straps on the axle to stop it from drooping enough to kill your drive shaft.

[Matt Pascoe]

Trust me... I really know how much it sucks to re-do work that you thought was done But you really will need a SYE and set the pinion/perches to point at the CV. If you truly cant do it now, go ahead and install a big 'ol t-case drop so you can at least drive it. But sooner or later you will want a SYE and at least now you have things partially dismantled... so if you can, do it now

[Jason L Williams]

Thanks for the replies. I was thinking about it last night and knew in my mind a SYE was probably needed to correct this. I also knew posting this would get the replies I got. Someone was supposed to have some magic answer. I was trying to get this all done to go to HDR Memorial Day weekend but I don't think it will happen. The money doesn't mean anything if it isn't done right and I break something. You read alot about this mod and how straight forward it is but there's alot more to it. I'm itching to at least drive it and wheel it. (do you hear the fiddles in the background yet? )
Soon.

[John]

Motor mount lift? Grind a little off the yoke?

[Robert J. Yates]

Easier than all of that - get a set of degree shims once you get the SYE. You do not need to cut off and re-weld the perches to accomodate the CV if you use the shims. Thats what I did with the Burb - you don't even have to drop the axle to install them either. Just loosen the u-bolts and let the axle hang down inside of them.

Of course, a motor mount lift would probably do the same thing but thats a tough call on 4 bangers due tot he vibes.

[Jason L Williams]

Actually a couple of years ago, Scott Hill and I raised the motor about 2" IIRCC. That let me get rid of the t/c drop I had then. Instead of sweating over it, I'm going to go with my original plan. I'll see where everything is and go from there. I spoke to someone at Tom Woods about their AA with new driveshaft and I just need to get some measurements to them. I have a t/c drop kit ( oh the horrors) and will probaby drop the t/c to drive it around and get the new tires that are patiently waiting for me at America's Tire. I thought about using degree shims. I have two sets of them at home. Hopefully the right ones.

[John]

IIRC I've got some 6? steel shims at the house. Yours if you need them.

[Jason L Williams]

Thanks. You still interested in the spring plates? I had to use the fronts. The rears are yours for the taking. Eventually the fronts will be available. Nailer341 gave me an idea how to fix the issue I was having with the skid plates.

[John]

Originally posted by Jason L Williams
Thanks. You still interested in the spring plates? I had to use the fronts. The rears are yours for the taking. Eventually the fronts will be available. Nailer341 gave me an idea how to fix the issue I was having with the skid plates.

Yeah I'm interested still. We could do a hostage exchange of suspension stuff.

[Robert J. Yates]

I like how the round spring guy had to come in here and set all you coal cart drivers straight

[John]

What? You gave him a band-aid for a broken leg

It's either that or all that XJ work is starting to rub off on you...

[Matt Pascoe]

Originally posted by John
What? You gave him a band-aid for a broken leg

It's either that or all that XJ work is starting to rub off on you...

Ditto

My pinion is pointed up 22*. That would be some scary shim stacking

[Robert J. Yates]

Come on....that wasn't a band aid - I gave him a lotto ticket You coal cart guys are just jealous you didn't spot this piece of tech before a yuppie Jeeper with round springs did. He has 3" BDS lift - I don't think he needs 22 degrees of pinion rotation to make a SYE work

[John]

Hey now... How would we know that he's only got a 3" lift? Or that he didn't put in the manufacturers supplied shims?

Jason, bring that thing over. We'll fix it up real nice You did say you want clearance for those 40" MT/R's right?

[NAILER341]

jason, just save up for the SYE and get it in there right.
when you order it, if it is from tom woods, be sure to tell him to "clearance" the yokes for you.

the perches can be cut off and relocated to the right angle for the sye without too much hassle.

we had discussed that the non sye driveshaft is a very temporary option. now we know it is only for the street

you could always just put 3/4" of shim on the transfer case skid. i'll bet that would make it so you can at least run a fire road or something with it. i know you are itching to get it on the trail.