Design my Jeep......

[DsrtJeeper]

OK people.....I need your input and compiled wisdom.

Problem areas with current setup:

I'm tired of bending the crap out of my rear axle lower CA mounts.

TC skid isn't flush with frame.

Rocker guards with protective tubing suck. When I impact the tubing; the load isn't spread evenly through rocker guards and this warps guards and tub.

Rear bumper hits every damn ledge I drop off from.

Rear shocks get beat to hell in stock position.

Cartridge joint mounted to rear truss goes south about every 4 months. The combination of a 5-speed and rear Detroit doesn't help. Will a triangulated 4 link be better in rear? This way there are two joints taking the load above rear diff.

Front freakin fenders!!!! They suck and are rock magnets.



Here's what i'm thinking:

1/4" thick lower CA mounts raised up to middle of rear axle tube. Will I have to raise the upper arm mounts on truss? I know there's a formula for the proper distance between the upper and lower CA spacing.

Starting all over with new suspension where the upper arm mounts are welded to frame. Then I can run a flatter TC skid due to the arms not being mounted to the skid. If I had a flat skid; I could run 4" coils instead of 6".

45* rockers and gain around 2" of side clearance. www.rev1crawlers.com is coming out with these shortly.

I'd like to straighten the rear portion of the frame and run a much higher rear bumper, but....The new TJ's have this stupid charcoal canister and pressure pump in the rear of the passenger side rear wheel well. UGH!

Blaine shock mod or mount shocks to top of axle tube???

Modify rear truss over diff to accept two heims for a triangulated 4 link for rear upper CA's. I think Full Traction hit the nail on the head with their rear uniball setup for simplicity and durability.

I'd love to cut the front fenders all the way back, but I fear no hood protection. The Poison Spyder tubed fenders don't seem to be the answer either. I need beef in this area.

I know; I need a buggy already! This is my DD and I can't afford a buggie. I like knarly trails and i'm not much on taking bypasses.

Post up your ideas, pics and experiences. Pics definately help penetrate my thick skull.

[02_WHITE_TJ_X]

Sell it and buy a Zuke You will never have to worry about bending anything if it bends so what.

[Dan-H]

for front fenders and rockers, I like what Paul did on his TJ.

http://www.jeepshots.com/shots/projects/tube/

http://www.jeepshots.com/shots/proje...be/index_2.htm

[DsrtJeeper]

Originally posted by 02_WHITE_TJ_X
Sell it and buy a Zuke You will never have to worry about bending anything if it bends so what.

I built a sweet Zuk and sold it! The main drawbacks with the Zuk was DD status and wheelbase.

[DsrtJeeper]

Originally posted by Dan-H
for front fenders and rockers, I like what Paul did on his TJ.

http://www.jeepshots.com/shots/projects/tube/

http://www.jeepshots.com/shots/proje...be/index_2.htm

Thanks for the links!

[Wind_Danzer]

A little finesse may help.

[Stu Olson]

To be honest.....for the level of trail you continue to run, I believe you are doing yourself and your rig a HUGE disservice by either not running an automatic tranny or not having a deeper low range in your t-case.

I say this as a friend.......watching you drive on the trail.....your gearing is screwing you. IMO, few drivers can succesfully navigate the trails you are doing with a 50:1 gear ratio and a standard tranny.

Here is a better example....stacking a 37" tire onto a smaller 35" tire should be a cake walk with a properly set up TJ, even if done from the blind side when a spotter is available.

Edit: I started my response before Jamie posted hers.....I think she and I are on the same wavelength.....there is a message here.

[DsrtJeeper]

Originally posted by Stu Olson
To be honest.....for the level of trail you continue to run, I believe you are doing yourself and your rig a HUGE disservice by either not running an automatic tranny or not having a deeper low range in your t-case.

I say this as a friend.......watching you drive on the trail.....your gearing is screwing you. IMO, few drivers can succesfully navigate the trails you are doing with a 50:1 gear ratio and a standard tranny.

Here is a better example....stacking a 37" tire onto a smaller 35" tire should be a cake walk with a properly set up TJ, even if done from the blind side when a spotter is available.

Edit: I started my response before Jamie posted hers.....I think she and I are on the same wavelength.....there is a message here.

You guys are definately correct there. On trails like Diehard; i'd need even more than the 4:1. The damage incurred by some on that trail was enough to deter them from ever running it again. Clearance was the key there and seems to be on the most difficult trails. I have to say one of the best performers on my recent 5.0 trail trips was John K. who used to work for Troy. His CJ works awesome and many agreed. His rig has a nice and low COG. nothing hangs down below the frame rails, dove tailed rear tub, 39.5" IROKS and excellent gearing. Even my Samurai had nothing hanging below the frame rails. I'm ready for a change.

Please don't take this as bad press for the TBT lift. I think it is still one of the best performing bolt on lifts available. I'm ready to customize my Jeep to suit my needs and like many; this entails custom components.

Another concept that catches my interest is high clearance lower control arms such as those used by TNT Customs and Nth Degree.

[Wind_Danzer]

Well I get first dibs on your axles.

Seriously though, did you ever think that just adding the 4:1 may help you to the point that things may not be wearing out or getting hung up on a constant basis?

Do the shock mod, don't worry about the bumper persay, it's taking the beating it is intended to take and if you drop slower off some ledges (4:1) you may miss it more often.

Seriously though... I get first dibs on your axles.

[DsrtJeeper]

Originally posted by Wind_Danzer
Well I get first dibs on your axles.

Seriously though, did you ever think that just adding the 4:1 may help you to the point that things may not be wearing out or getting hung up on a constant basis?

Do the shock mod, don't worry about the bumper persay, it's taking the beating it is intended to take and if you drop slower off some ledges (4:1) you may miss it more often.

Seriously though... I get first dibs on your axles.

Axles are staying. They work just fine. I'd run high pinions front and rear if I had the cash. I'm just looking to improve my current setup with some creative and less costly ideas. The 4:1 will make a big difference. It will not however decrease the size of boulders I must traverse. I need the underneath of my chassis to be less likely to snag edges of obstacles.

[Stu Olson]

Originally posted by DsrtJeeper
Clearance was the key there and seems to be on the most difficult trails. I have to say one of the best performers on my recent 5.0 trail trips was John K. who used to work for Troy. His CJ works awesome and many agreed. His rig has a nice and low COG. nothing hangs down below the frame rails, dove tailed rear tub, 39.5" IROKS and excellent gearing. Even my Samurai had nothing hanging below the frame rails. I'm ready for a change.

I don't doubt for a second that clerance is a key....a very important key.

I'm sure John's CJ worked nicely....and you know what, if you did everything to your rig that you commented on about John's you still wouldn't be much better off than you are now, IMO.

I'll emphasize the point again......how many rock crawlers do you know that run a 50:1 crawl ratio?

Jamie nailed it on the head when she said finesse. It is for that very reason that any comp driver worth his salt uses an auto tranny.

I don't care what you do to your rig......until you can crawl on a 5.0 trail, you'll simply continue to beat the crap out of your rig. I'm not saying you don't need clearance, etc......I'm just saying you will see the most bang for your buck by putting in an auto tranny or deep gears in a t-case.

I can drag my center skid across the rocks until I am blue in the face....and it will remain flat, or nearly so. It only takes one grand slam to bend the hell out of it because I can't crawl the line and keep the tires where they belong.

OK.....I'll stop now.

Edit: I lied....I forgot to tell you that I'll be glad to help wrench on your rig when I have the chance.

[1BLKJP]

Yeah, Eric I gotta agree with Stu and Jamie on this one. I have crawled most of those same ledges without the axle gearing you have. But I have an auto and am able to use less RPM to scale a wall.

As far as the shock mod, I would say that if you are staying with coil/shock combo then it is a must do. It will move your shocks as far out of the way as you want them to be.

And while it is no secret that I have issues with my lift I have to agree with you that the Detroit with the manual is probably what is killing the tri-link mount for you. It is also probably the reason the truss pulls bolts out of the diff on your rig.

Buggies run the same trails easier and faster as we do. The only difference is that they don't care if they rip something off nor do they have to drive it 75 MPH on the highway to get home.

I don't sit at a trailhead hoping to flop my junk and if I run a trail where someone flops and I don't then I consider that a good day for my rig.

[DsrtJeeper]

Originally posted by Stu Olson
I don't doubt for a second that clerance is a key....a very important key.

I'm sure John's CJ worked nicely....and you know what, if you did everything to your rig that you commented on about John's you still wouldn't be much better off than you are now, IMO.

I'll emphasize the point again......how many rock crawlers do you know that run a 50:1 crawl ratio?

Jamie nailed it on the head when she said finesse. It is for that very reason that any comp driver worth his salt uses an auto tranny.

I don't care what you do to your rig......until you can crawl on a 5.0 trail, you'll simply continue to beat the crap out of your rig. I'm not saying you don't need clearance, etc......I'm just saying you will see the most bang for your buck by putting in an auto tranny or deep gears in a t-case.

I can drag my center skid across the rocks until I am blue in the face....and it will remain flat, or nearly so. It only takes one grand slam to bend the hell out of it because I can't crawl the line and keep the tires where they belong.

OK.....I'll stop now.

Edit: I lied....I forgot to tell you that I'll be glad to help wrench on your rig when I have the chance.

OK, maybe I wasn't clear on this....... I agree on the 4:1 gearing in the TC. It is on my list to do. I've already discussed this with Grady at TBT. My other main goal is to smooth out my undercarriage with flat skids and relocated lower control arm brackets.

[DsrtJeeper]

Originally posted by 1BLKJP
It is also probably the reason the truss pulls bolts out of the diff on your rig.

Jack;
I've adressed this a couple of times with you on the AZVJC. My bolts never pulled out of my diff where the truss attaches. They remain tight to this day and I still have the original threads in the diff.

Back when I first installed the lift; I had a bad cartridge joint above the rear diff. At first glance it appeared to be loose bolts. It was not the case.

[DsrtJeeper]

Maybe this will help........ Look at the TJ featured on page 30 of the July issue of JP. See the underbody protection on that Jeep?

See the rear bumper? Very low profile.

That Jeep is headed in the right direction! ME LIKES!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[mrblaine]

How many rockcrawlers run 50-1? Most of us with autos and according to recent conversations with Mr. Currie and him setting up his personal rig, it's pretty much the preferred ratio.

I'm striving for the same with my new set up and I won't be regearing lower than 4:88's and I won't be running 37's. In the respect of being forgiving, compensating, autos excel.

Since you're limited to 4:88's, I'd forgo the 4-1 and swap in an auto if your ego can handle it. There's a lot to be said for keeping the gearing in your axles and not in the t-case. The body is less reactive to motor torque.

The only reason I've been able to survive in JV as long as I have is all the little tweaks I've done to add up to decent capability.

Flat skid, nothing doin the hangy downy thang, shock mod, mid length arms with the frame mounts just in front of the tires and out of 50 trips, I may hang up on an arm 3-4 times.

I was looking at my raised body mounts today and they are still in great shape with only the minor kiss here and there. Raised body mounts rule!

[Wind_Danzer]

I'd like to see but don't get JP, do they have a link anywhere to said Jeep on the internet?

EDIT: Are you also looking to raise the gas tank then too so it's flat all the way from the midline back to the rear?

[DsrtJeeper]

Originally posted by mrblaine
How many rockcrawlers run 50-1? Most of us with autos and according to recent conversations with Mr. Currie and him setting up his personal rig, it's pretty much the preferred ratio.

I'm striving for the same with my new set up and I won't be regearing lower than 4:88's and I won't be running 37's. In the respect of being forgiving, compensating, autos excel.

Since you're limited to 4:88's, I'd forgo the 4-1 and swap in an auto if your ego can handle it. There's a lot to be said for keeping the gearing in your axles and not in the t-case. The body is less reactive to motor torque.

The only reason I've been able to survive in JV as long as I have is all the little tweaks I've done to add up to decent capability.

Flat skid, nothing doin the hangy downy thang, shock mod, mid length arms with the frame mounts just in front of the tires and out of 50 trips, I may hang up on an arm 3-4 times.

I was looking at my raised body mounts today and they are still in great shape with only the minor kiss here and there. Raised body mounts rule!

Thank you Blaine. I guess I have a hard time putting thoughts to words, but you have pretty much summed it up. I sure wish you lived nearby as i'd bend your ear for a while and beckon your help! I need pics; man! What is your new setup? I'm dying to see your aluminum skid and how you accomplished it. I take it you're going back to 35's?

I'm not sure i'm comfident enough to pull off the auto swap. What about my current computer? Swap in one from an auto TJ?

Eric

[mrblaine]

Originally posted by DsrtJeeper
Thank you Blaine. I guess I have a hard time putting thoughts to words, but you have pretty much summed it up. I sure wish you lived nearby as i'd bend your ear for a while and beckon your help! I need pics; man! What is your new setup? I'm dying to see your aluminum skid and how you accomplished it. I take it you're going back to 35's?

I'm not sure i'm comfident enough to pull off the auto swap. What about my current computer? Swap in one from an auto TJ?

Eric

Get in touch with Darrell C on here. He swapped a 3 speed into his Rubicon and seems to be quite happy and certainly made our days in JV slightly easier.

You should still have my number. If not, pm me or send me yours.

[DsrtJeeper]

Originally posted by Wind_Danzer
I'd like to see but don't get JP, do they have a link anywhere to said Jeep on the internet?

EDIT: Are you also looking to raise the gas tank then too so it's flat all the way from the midline back to the rear?

Jamie;
They have a website, but I doubt it goes into any detail on this Jeep. They wouldn't sell many subscriptions that way.

I may raise the gas tank eventually, but not just now. The whole idea is to glide or skid over obstacles and not hang up on them. Curries "Fireant" was quite a Jeep and still is in my book.

Look under a Unimog if you get a chance and tell me what you see. Nothing but AIR!!!

[Wind_Danzer]

Guess I'll have to check it out at some point next time I'm over your way.

If you could just raise the control arm mounts and find a way to go completely flat underneith while keeping Troy's arms, would you or are you really to the point of moving on from that lift?

Stu also helped to put a auto in a TJ too so I'm sure he could lend his advice on the toping of tranny swaps.

[DsrtJeeper]

Originally posted by Wind_Danzer
Guess I'll have to check it out at some point next time I'm over your way.

If you could just raise the control arm mounts and find a way to go completely flat underneith while keeping Troy's arms, would you or are you really to the point of moving on from that lift?

Stu also helped to put a auto in a TJ too so I'm sure he could lend his advice on the toping of tranny swaps.

Well; I really don't know and money dictates what i'll do. I've always been intrigued by the Currie J-arms, but i'd like triangulation in the rear.

[blkTJ]

I'm at about 90:1 with a manual on 35s. It's almost low enough.

my advice... go low or go auto.

[NAILER341]

Originally posted by DsrtJeeper
Well; I really don't know and money dictates what i'll do. I've always been intrigued by the Currie J-arms, but i'd like triangulation in the rear.

how much money are we talking about here? this will be helpful in the recommendations for your jeep.

[Robert J. Yates]

I think that TJ in JP Mag is a duck out of water. Yes the extended wheelbase is nice, particularly the rolled fender edges but 37's on stock axles

Eric, you need gearing before you do anything else IMO.

[John]

I just went down this road. With my engine swap I had to pick a transmission, and went auto for the control. Bang for the buck it's a hell of a lot cheaper to do that then it is to start stacking t-cases, Klunes, or multiple transmissions.

Oh, and the wife will drive it with an auto

[DsrtJeeper]

Originally posted by Robert J. Yates
I think that TJ in JP Mag is a duck out of water. Yes the extended wheelbase is nice, particularly the rolled fender edges but 37's on stock axles

Eric, you need gearing before you do anything else IMO.

I run 37's on my 30/44 combo with great success. I finally broke the long side inner on my 30 a month ago. Just for reference; the guy behind me, broke his Dana 60 front on the same obstacle. This was the first breakage ever running this combo and i'm still running stock spline count F&R.

Again; the 4:1 is on my list and I currently have 4:88's in the diffs.

[DsrtJeeper]

Originally posted by John
I just went down this road. With my engine swap I had to pick a transmission, and went auto for the control. Bang for the buck it's a hell of a lot cheaper to do that then it is to start stacking t-cases, Klunes, or multiple transmissions.

Oh, and the wife will drive it with an auto

I hear ya. Even with an auto; it seems many guys around here are running Atlas TC's or a factory unit with 4:1.

[Robert J. Yates]

Originally posted by DsrtJeeper
I run 37's on my 30/44 combo with great success.

If I'm not mistaken, you are running chromo axles right? I didn't see in the article where that Jeep was running any of that. Maybe oogling on that chick in the bikini farther along in the mag caused me to skip over that point though

[John]

Originally posted by DsrtJeeper
I hear ya. Even with an auto; it seems many guys around here are running Atlas TC's or a factory unit with 4:1.

I'll see what I think of my 2.46 gears for a year or 2. If I need to go lower then it's a Tera 3.15 gear set. That would take me from 34:1 all the way down to 44:1