Small annoying problem needs a solution

[mrblaine]

My stock receiver hitch allowed my high dollar Alumistinger drawbar to clunk up and down.

The same drawbar also clunks in the Currie bumpers, and my new insanely expensive Super Hitch.

I can only conclude that all receiver tubing is made to the same dimensions internally (I actually know that's true) and I either have a defective drawbar, or they are supposed to clunk.

Is there a good way to stop this that doesn't require any mods to the hitch? Super Hitch will void any warranty if I drill the extension tube and would likely hunt me down if I welded a nut to it over a hole that would stop the clunk.

BTW- I doubt it's the drawbar as I have another one of them with a less amount of drop and it clunks as well.

[Jerry Bransford]

If it were me Blaine, I would ignore the warranty issue and weld a nut over a hole to thread a bolt into that could be used to stop the clunk. Afterall, what can go wrong with a well-built trailer hitch that would require a warranty repair? I've had that same issue and a 1/2" bolt with a lock nut took care of it.

[Matt Pascoe]

I've never had a hitch (drawbar) that did not clunk in the reciever. With a steel hitch I'd just live with it, but with an aluminum hitch it might be a slight concern (constant hammering on the aluminum).

I vaguely recall seeing some type of shim stock at a trailer supply house that was intended to reduce the play...

[speaceman]

Hitches don't clunk?

Every hitch I have, including the one included by the factory that came with the factory hitch I just put on our honda mini-van clunks.

[TObject]

I've seen hitches with the pin hole lined with some kind of plastic that is supposed to quiet things down. I also figure, a lot of the clunking goes from the up and down motion of the hitch, pivoting on the pin against the insides of the receiver tube. On my little Warn Hitch Receiver Shackle that I have in the back of my jeep, I stopped the clunking by simply gluing a strip of furniture leg padding material (some kind of wool-like synthetic material, sticky on one side) to wrap the upper and lower surfaces of the hitch, where it touches the receiver. I don't know if this method will work on a tow rig, but it works well on a jeep.

[TObject]

I don't know if this is any good, but I just found it on the Internet:

Roadmaster Quiet Hitch Anti-Rattle Device

[Jeff Weston]

My less than elegant solution on my Warn receiver shackle was to wrap some duct tape around it where it fits inside the receiver. If you remove it isn't pretty, but is quiet.

I'd drill the hole, weld the nut and use a bolt as you suggested and worry about the warranty if and when the need arises.

[Jerry Bransford]

Originally Posted by TObject

I don't know if this is any good, but I just found it on the Internet:

Roadmaster Quiet Hitch Anti-Rattle Device

With a locknut added to its bolt, that actually looks like a pretty good fix since it doesn't modify the hitch itself that would void the warranty Blaine didn't want to lose. Good find Sergey!

[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by Jerry Bransford

If it were me Blaine, I would ignore the warranty issue and weld a nut over a hole to thread a bolt into that could be used to stop the clunk. Afterall, what can go wrong with a well-built trailer hitch that would require a warranty repair? I've had that same issue and a 1/2" bolt with a lock nut took care of it.

Jerry, the hitch is 1100 dollars and rated for 1700 lbs of tongue weight towing a 17,000 lb trailer. There is warning after warning not to modify or install it differently than following the instructions to the letter including the specified torque values on the bolts.

I do agree with your logic, I'm just not willing to have to explain to anyone why there is a welded nut should I get in a wreck and the trailer comes loose.

If you want to get a rider on your insurance for the trailer and hitch in the event that something like that does happen, I'd be more than satisfied with welding a nut on there.

[Kiwi]

Originally Posted by mrblaine

My stock receiver hitch allowed my high dollar Alumistinger drawbar to clunk up and down.

The same drawbar also clunks in the Currie bumpers, and my new insanely expensive Super Hitch.

I can only conclude that all receiver tubing is made to the same dimensions internally (I actually know that's true) and I either have a defective drawbar, or they are supposed to clunk.

Mine does also. It's too annoying to leave the drawbar in when the trailer isn't hooked up. I might try that Roadmaster bandaid

[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by TObject

I don't know if this is any good, but I just found it on the Internet:

Roadmaster Quiet Hitch Anti-Rattle Device

That looks like it will work, only they have it upside down. It needs to be inverted to hold the drawbar down and not carry the whole weight of the tongue on the end of the bolt.

[Macgyver]

Originally Posted by mrblaine

Jerry, the hitch is 1100 dollars and rated for 1700 lbs of tongue weight towing a 17,000 lb trailer. There is warning after warning not to modify or install it differently than following the instructions to the letter including the specified torque values on the bolts.

I do agree with your logic, I'm just not willing to have to explain to anyone why there is a welded nut should I get in a wreck and the trailer comes loose.

If you want to get a rider on your insurance for the trailer and hitch in the event that something like that does happen, I'd be more than satisfied with welding a nut on there.

Are you using a weight distribution type draw bar on it? My Titan 5 camper extension with the load bars of the weight distrbution set up preloaded the hitch and it didn't rattle.

The other thing I had done is a small little wedge hammered in to stop the rattles.

[papromike]

Blaine, have you tried a device called the

Hitch VICE??


http://www.hitchrider.com/nowobble.htm

I have one and it works GREAT....

[mrblaine]

Originally Posted by Macgyver

Are you using a weight distribution type draw bar on it? My Titan 5 camper extension with the load bars of the weight distrbution set up preloaded the hitch and it didn't rattle.

The other thing I had done is a small little wedge hammered in to stop the rattles.

No WD as of yet. I'm going to try and run without it to see if the hitch can handle it.

[Dan-H]

I had a removable tongue custom made for my boat trailer so it would fit in my garage.

The concept is the same as a reciever and reciever hitch, except its on the trailer side and uses larger square tubing. ( like 3" ID )

They welded some "dots" on the sides and the bottom of the smaller male section and then they filed the dots down until it was snug.

two dots on the leading and trailing edges of both sides, and three dots on the leading and trailing edge of the bottom.

If I'm not explaining this well I can take a pick. It might turn out.

[Cutch]

This is the very reason why I drive my Jeep to the trailhead...ignore the fact the fact that I can't afford a diesel pickup truck and trailer..did I mention that I'm still a pretty good hockey player though

[Paradiddle]

My receivers clunk in my mini-van receiver, my motorhome receiver, and my Currie copy rear bumper.

The only thing I have that doesn't clunk in my receiver is my bike rack - but it has a nut and a bolt that you tighten!

Jeff