Any special wrenches needed for installing longer brake lines?

[LeadFoot]

Yeah yeah yeah, basic thing I know, but this is the first time I'll be adding extended brake lines. the 3.5" kit came with brake line relocators, but I still have a hard time understanding how you can extended the brake lines and not add any brake line length??

Of course I checked out Stu's page and saw how the relocators are installed (instructions in the kit are pretty weak in this department) Looks just as easy to install longer lines, plus I could use a bleed job and new fluid. I'm assuming the longer lines bolt to the caliper? I need to know where so I can disco the line now so I can jack up the frame in order to install the new leafs (My brake lines are maxed right now). Banjo bolts require a special tool to get off or can I get them off with a normal open-end wrench?

That and my track bars wont come off! The nuts are off and I pound on the bolt with a 8lb sledge and it doesnt even move! I just might leave em on until they start working there way loose, then get them out...

I have 2 stripped bolts holding up my center crossmember. I'm not sure if the nut is spinning inside the frame or if it's stripped. Im hoping that I can just re-tap it a next larger size. That seem like a good idea? Thanks guys!

[Stu Olson]

Although note absolutely required, it is nice to have a set of brake line wrenches (it is on my list of tools to get). The banjo bolt requires a plain old wrench, nothhing special. Good luck on your mess up nut.

[Scott]

I would at least figure out what size the line nut is, probably a 3/8" and go buy a line wrench to take the nut off. They are your friend. Destroying the nut is not a fun thing. TRUST ME.
Scott

[selph]

John, FWIW...I found that on my TJ there was plenty of extra room for the hard brake lines to just "unbend" a loop on each line coming out of the master cyl. Then I unbolted the bracket from the frame where the hard line coupled to the hose. I took a short piece of flat stock and drilled a couple holes in it. I then bolted that bracket lower on the frame and bolted the original bracket to the other end of the flat stock. It worked great. It's on a TJ so it might be different on your YJ. I get some pretty good flex and it's worked great so far. If you need me to take a pic, just let me know. HTH Dave

[LeadFoot]

Scott:
What is so special about these brake line wrenches? Are they stronger? Do they fit better?

Dave:
I understand exactly what you mean! I will have to check to see if that will work tomorrow. Thanks guys!

[donjr5]

A brake line wrench is like a 6-point box-end wrench with an opening just large enough to slip the wrench past the line and slide back onto the nut. It puts pressure on 5 of the 6 sides of the nut (as opposed to 2 sides for a regular open-end wrench). There's little chance of mashing the nut or stripping off the corners, as brakelines have a lot of torque applied.

[Dan-H]

flare nut wrenches



not only do they cover more of the brass fitting, they are thicker than an open end wrench so they contact more of the fitting with less chance of stripping.

[LeadFoot]

Thanks guys! I just picked up a 3/8'ths wrench today. Makes sense now.

[quadna71]

just to jump onto an older brake thread....
how have the LA folks here reworked their brake lines? i'm about 12 hours away from going through mine completely. today i picked up a bender, flare kit, fittings, 90* angled aluminum stock for brackets, and 25' of 3/16" tubing..yeah, more than enough. i was originally planning on running both of the front lines down the drivers side upper torque arm and then splitting the right side off over the top of the axle. i just don't want any hoses to be hanging around and/or limiting my flex in any way. same thing for the rear....running a hard line down the long arm and then joining up to the "T". i have 6" hose sections for the flexing points at the joints...and some bling speedbleeders ready to go in for the end of the day. oh, i picked up a handful of the brakehose clips as well to keep everything tight agains the brackets i am fashioning.

i figure i can spend the day taking the time to get all the little bends just "so" ....that way it'll look nice and clean when all finished. the only line that should be left OEM when done is the first length along the frame heading to the rear axle.

so, does this sound like a smart move? is there an obviously easier way to plumb the lines? bueller, bueller???
chris

[Matt Pascoe]

I recently ran new hardlines to the rear, down an upper link and across the axle. It was MUCH more dificult and time consuming than I had planned.

Heres a few tips:

Get a high quality double flare tool. I destroyed two $50 KD tool flare kits from Napa. I think Blaines out of town right now, but he has the name of a good one.

Use a small tubing cutter to cut the brake line:

this goes against most instructions.

Try to avoid using fittings that require those brakeline clips, IMO they dont work well. Go to a hotrod shop and get "bulkhead unions". They use a nut to secure the fitting to the bracket. I used these ones from Russel Performance:
Bulkhead union

Bulkead Tee


And for running the brake lines down your control arm, I found some bling billet aluminum clamps that are designed to hold a 3/16" brake line to a 1.5" control arm (they do have other sizes) at a dune buggy supply shop. They securely hold the brake line, and you can loosen the set screw so you can still rotate your control arm if needed.

HTH,
Matt

[cbassett]

Originally posted by quadna71
just to jump onto an older brake thread....
how have the LA folks here reworked their brake lines? i'm about 12 hours away from going through mine completely. today i picked up a bender, flare kit, fittings, 90* angled aluminum stock for brackets, and 25' of 3/16" tubing..yeah, more than enough. i was originally planning on running both of the front lines down the drivers side upper torque arm and then splitting the right side off over the top of the axle. i just don't want any hoses to be hanging around and/or limiting my flex in any way. same thing for the rear....running a hard line down the long arm and then joining up to the "T". i have 6" hose sections for the flexing points at the joints...and some bling speedbleeders ready to go in for the end of the day. oh, i picked up a handful of the brakehose clips as well to keep everything tight agains the brackets i am fashioning.

i figure i can spend the day taking the time to get all the little bends just "so" ....that way it'll look nice and clean when all finished. the only line that should be left OEM when done is the first length along the frame heading to the rear axle.

so, does this sound like a smart move? is there an obviously easier way to plumb the lines? bueller, bueller???
chris

You're on the right track. Running the lines down the arms (when goind LA or radius arms) is a must, in my book. If you just extend the stock lines, you're just taunting the rock and log gods and daring them to wedge their best inside your wheel well.