|
Technical Forum The main forum for jeep related discussions. Mechanically Inept... |
|
Thread Tools | Rate Thread | Display Modes |
#31
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I definately need a center strap. My drive shaft ujoints will bind long before the axle stops dropping Quote:
I decided to be a trend setter and swap the far superior YJ front clip onto a TJ JK |
#32
|
|||
|
|||
I wheel with a friend that has a YJ converted to TBT's rear suspension. His rig works extremely well! Maybe it's a good thing to have more travel in the rear than the front?
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#33
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
Have you ever imagined a world with no hypothetical situations? |
#34
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
By the way; I run a 1310 into 1330 cv combo for a high angle shaft. I'm not sure a full 1310 cv setup will work for anything much over a 4" lift.
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#35
|
|||
|
|||
Sorry no pics. And I just gave away the last Toyota shaft I had laying around last night.
IIRC it's a difference of 40-41? for the Toy stuff vs. 28? for the 1310 though
__________________
Have you ever imagined a world with no hypothetical situations? |
#36
|
|||
|
|||
Quite a difference! You could also buy offset trunion u-joints from Tom Woods.
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#37
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
I am Savvy. |
#38
|
|||
|
|||
I just crawled under the Jeep with an angle finder, and sitting leval my t-case point down at 6* and my 1310CV shaft is at 24*. So I'm at 18* operating angle at rest.
Tom Woods' site says he can get 30-35* out of a 1310 CV with a little tweeking. I'll have to see how it looks drooped I do know that I bound my CV at TDS. I can see where the CV center housing contacted the u-joint cap. Oh, and Rick pointed out to me that I have about 1/2" of front driveshaft slip engaged I moved my front axle forward 1" while going SOA and I guess I've run out of shaft. Got a few bugs to work out |
#39
|
|||
|
|||
Matt; you may want to look into a new high angle driveline. The 1310 can be clearanced a bit, but would have to be rebalanced I would guess.
Your front shaft can easily be lengthened for about $150.00. Blaine; you're absolutely correct. (You already knew that.)
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#40
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
My next option is the JBC Super short rear driveshaft. I did consider trying to adapt a 42 degree angle Longfield Birfield into a driveshaft, but can't get it straight in my head yet.
__________________
I am Savvy. |
#41
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I'm curious... did you run three limiting straps in the rear or just one at each shock? I'm not quite sure what Troy is doing to his cv's, but at full droop my driveshaft does not bind enough to say so. By the way; what did you do to get your gas tank so flush? I just noticed the flat skid underneath it.
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#42
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I don't think Troy can do much to the CV's if they are 1310's and Spicer parts. Least ways not where it does any good. Gas tank. Made a new one out of aluminum, shoved it up through a hole in the floor, skidded it and used all the stock parts for emissions, return and pump.
__________________
I am Savvy. |
#43
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
I have been told by several buggy guys that they prefer one strap in the middle. They claim that it forces the axle to articulate one way or the other when the strap tightens. My question to you... If I place one centered strap, how does this limit shock travel in the rear when the axle articulates?
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#44
|
|||
|
|||
Am I picturing this wrong??? It seems if you had a center limiting strap; your shocks would be the limiting factor when articulating.
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#45
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Now that I think about it, I may build a truss to hang a pair of center straps from. That would stop the bind at the CV and still let me have more articulation if I wanted it. Just so the pair doesn't confuse you, I typically run about 50-60 mph back to camp from the outer trails and some of the whoops will launch me off the ground. The pair is to handle the weight of the axle when that happens.
__________________
I am Savvy. |
#46
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
Life's journey is not to arrive at the grave safely, in a well preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, totally worn out, shouting, "...HOLY $HIT...what a ride!" |
#47
|
|||
|
|||
I just checked my rear shaft and it binds at 30*. At full axle droop its at 40*. I cant think of any reason that I would ever want my axle drooped that much so I'll probably add a center limit strap at 30*.
I can see that where the 1310 CV is binding there is plenty of beef to do a little clearancing. I'll talk to TW Monday and see what he recomends. |
#48
|
|||
|
|||
Well I just ramped it and flexed the rear out as far as I would ever want it to flex and the rear shaft is operating at 20* and my pinion is still pointed straight at the CV.
Now I'm thinking I'll add a limiting strap at ~25*, leave the CV alone and call it good |
#49
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
__________________
I am Savvy. |
#50
|
|||
|
|||
DsrtJeeper, I like it very much. I'd like to build (or have it built) something similar. Only I was going to triangulate the lowers much more towards the center of the crossmember to have very little rear steer. I think this is why you still notice it at full articualtion but I also think you can't completely get away from it unless a single mounting point where the arms meet is used.
I also thought that if I mount them more in the center, the arms might protect the driveshaft from rocks and stumps a bit that way. Do you really think the crossmember would buckle/bend? I was going to use 3/16" wall 2x4 square tubing laid flat. MrBlaine/anyone what do you think? Would it be strong enough? Would the lower arms be in a way of obstacles too much (I actually thought I would run them horizontal to about where the front of the rear tires are and then bend them down toward the axle mounts) but I think straight tubes would be stronger and definitely easier to build. |
#52
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
That one didn't show up for some reason, nor did I get an email notification that there had been a reply to a thread I was watching. Yes, I think 2 x 4 x .188 wall will be strong enough. I don't know about swinging the lowers in towards the pumpkin or how that will affect clearance. No experience there. I like mine out where the tires are. Since they are only a small distance in front of the tires at the frame mounts, I have little difficulty getting the tire up on something the arm is dragging on.
__________________
I am Savvy. |
#53
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Quote:
|
#54
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Mine are 1.250 x .120 wall chromolly with 3/4 x 3/4 rod ends and have zero issues. No bending, no worn out rod ends, nothing. If I did have an issue, it's an easy matter to up the size to 3/4 x 7/8's shank and go to 1.375 uppers and sleeve the .120 wall with 1.125" tubing of any wall thickness I can find. As for me, I'm gonna leave well enough alone for now, it doesn't seem to have many issues and has proven to be very durable.
__________________
I am Savvy. |
#55
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
#57
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
Inboard or outboard the mounts and then you have to deal with gravity flopping the arm over to one side or the other. Solve those issues and clearance is a good thing. Straight arms, I'd do Chromolly. Bent arms I'd go with heavy wall DOM for the cost factor over C/M.
__________________
I am Savvy. |
#58
|
|||
|
|||
I've been doing some research about double triangulated setup also, since I'm considering it. And putting a slight arch in my lower arms.
In addition to factors Blaine mentioned about bending the lower arms, I read a post on POR about someone who put a "decent" bend in the arms and ran into clearance issues with the lowers hitting the uppers. He ended up manufacturing new lowers without a bend to resolve the clearance issue. I would think a slight bend (whatever that is) would improve approach angle to the rear axle without causing too many untoward effects.
__________________
pooring money down the Jeep hole... |
#59
|
|||
|
|||
Re: roll axis and rear steer
I just found this post and it does a good job of explaining how your roll axis effects rear steer. Double triangulation helps to get a flat roll axis. I think that is the main reason why so many go that route. My roll axis is a positive 4* (roll over steer) which explains why I have slight rear steer. If I had triangulated the uppers more I could have achieved a flat roll axis. Raising the upper or lower rear axle mounts also would flatten my roll axis, but would give me more squat at the same time. |
#60
|
|||
|
|||
Quote:
|
Bookmarks |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
T&J possibly changing their D44 cover design to include a higher fill hole | Jerry Bransford | Jeep Friends Forum | 3 | 10-11-2006 06:18 AM |
house design input wanted | NAILER341 | Jeep Friends Forum | 18 | 09-27-2006 11:49 AM |
Welding on a Currie 9" HD housing and Design ideas... | svandell | Technical Forum | 1 | 05-02-2005 03:08 PM |
Air Activated Ox Shifter Design Idea - Your Suggestions Please | Daless2 | Jeep Friends Forum | 13 | 03-29-2002 09:14 AM |
On Board Fluids (OBF) System - Your Design Assistance Please! | Daless2 | Jeep Friends Forum | 2 | 12-17-2001 09:04 AM |